Japan with Mark Bitterman

Day 1

Welcome to Okinawa! This chain of 150 islands, scattered in the turquoise waters of the South China Sea, forms the southernmost prefecture of Japan. Once an independent kingdom, it boasts its own unique history, cuisine and music. We begin with a visit to Yagaji Mars Salt Factory, on Yagaji Island in northern Okinawa. The birthplace of salt for the entire kingdom, it’s been harvested here for over 400 years. Mark will enlighten us all about the traditional “cooking” methods by which the salt is slowly heated in ancient iron pots, lending it a deep flavor and rosy color.

Next, we’ll turn our sights on another local delicacy: awamori, a liqueur of fermented rice that’s considered the national drink of Okinawa—and the most ancient spirit in all of Japan. Fermented with black koji mold, it’s distilled only once, and traditionally aged in earthenware jugs or stainless-steel barrels tucked away into limestone caves. In a place where age is honored—Okinawa is home to more centenarians than anywhere else in the world—it’s widely believed that awamori only grows better with time, a theory we’ll happily test out for ourselves. Tonight, we dine at a local restaurant to the lilting strains of the shansin. Its distinctive sound will create the perfect island mood as we toast our adventures to come.

Day 2

We begin with a drive past azure waters and majestic rocky outcroppings to Naha, Okinawa’s capital city. We’ll first do as the locals do and head to the food markets, picking up the freshest items for a hands-on cooking experience. Then we go deeper into Naha with a visit to the Tsuboya pottery district. Much of the old town was destroyed during World War II, but here, where the Ryukyu kingdom centralized pottery production in the 17th century, remains a serene outpost untouched by time.

We’ll attend a ceramic demo and wander winding stone-paved alleyways, perhaps picking up a few omiyage (gifts for friends). Afterward, we’ll check out Kokusai Dori, the “International Road” that runs ribbon-like through the center of town, to explore—and check out the Yukishio salt shop, famed for its Ryukyu limestone salts. Okinawa is a delightful hybrid of flavors and cultures, as popular a destination for Japanese tourists as it is for foreigners, and we’ll feel that allure the rest of our visit. We’ll return to Nago in the evening.

Day 3

Today we history, craft and cuisine and see how salt unifies them all. We’ll start the day wandering the stone ramparts of the 15th-century Nakagusuku Castle, a UNESCO World Heritage site formerly home to the Ryukyu kings.

Next, we’ll move from the ancient world to the modern. Our visit to the Hamahiga Salt Factory gives us an unparalleled behind-the-scenes view of salt production, starting with its harvesting from the crystalline waters right outside to its place on the dinner table. Mark will share his insights and we’ll enjoy a cooking demonstration, complete with salt pairings, that will serve as an introduction both to the Japanese concept of umami, the fifth taste, and to hyper-local Okinawan foodways, which use salt to preserve everything from pork to seaweed. We’ll return to Nago in the evening full of knowledge and flavor.

Day 4

Yōkoso to Kyoto! Today we’re off to Japan’s historic capital from the 12th to 19th centuries and one of the most visually stunning cities in the country. It’s a timeless land of crooked alleys, ancient shrines, narrow canals and rustling bamboo groves, all illuminated by the incandescent glow of scarlet maple leaves. Our first pilgrimage today will be to the Kyoto Distillery to taste the country’s first artisanal gin. Dry and elegant, it relies on locally sourced botanicals—a perfect complement to yesterday’s awamori experience. We’ll have a little time to rest and wander this afternoon before joining together for dinner at a local restaurant.

Day 5

Today we’ll take a winding road through the foothills of Mount Hiei, the sacred mountain that looms over Kyoto. We arrive in the ancient farming village of Ohara, a gentle valley town famed for its graceful temples, serpentine waterfalls—and crisp, colorful pickles. Its fertile soil is the perfect place to grow kyo-yasai, the heirloom vegetables of the Kyoto region famous for their vivid colors and fanciful shapes, and the pure mountain air creates perfect conditions for fermentation.

We’ll visit Doi and Shibakyu, two of Japan’s most beloved picklers both famed nationwide for their shibazuke, or pickled summer vegetables, with their signature purple hue, chewy texture and refreshing herbal bite. We’ll enjoy a traditional, rustic lunch here before getting our Zen on with a temple visit, the perfect chance to reflect on all the beauty surrounding us.

Day 6

Our first stop this morning is the massive, colorful and mesmerizing Kyoto’s Nishiki Market. We’ll meet a knife maker who’s been in business since the 16th century and sample tofu—exquisitely fermented in mountain springs—as we’ve never tasted it. Next, we’ll visit a 400-year-old soy sauce factory—because there’s no such thing as too much umami. We’ll spend the afternoon exploring on our own, wandering the back lanes of Gion, a historic district famous for its geishas, traditionally clad hostesses trained to entertain with conversation, dance and song.

Our farewell dinner tonight will also be courtesy of a traditional Kyoto geisha. For the first half of the evening, we’ll be treated to an ancient performance that requires years of schooling and apprenticeship to perfect; afterward, we’ll enjoy a conversation with the geisha over dinner and raise a glass to each other and all our adventures.

Day 7

After breakfast, we’ll transfer to the airport for our flights home, where we’ll approach every endeavor with a new sense of calm and care, helping us find beauty wherever we look. Until next time!