Why We Love Bonnie & Israel Morales
Bonnie and Israel gush with infectious passion, expertise and commitment for something most people didn’t realize they loved. Their restaurant is their mission: to share the seasonal, varied, complex flavors of Russian cuisine.
“Russian or Eastern European food isn’t just about beets, cabbage, fur coats and lots of mayo. There’s also cilantro!” – Israel Morales
“I get asked about the election, and I’m like, really? I’m cooking food I love to eat. I’m not Vladimir Putin. Just because I cook this food doesn’t mean I’m colluding!” – Bonnie Morales
Opening a Russian restaurant in the USA isn't exactly a certain hit. Why did you?
Bonnie: To tell my family's story. And also to share the food with people who wouldn’t be exposed to it. And because we’re crazy.
Israel: I would have led with "crazy." This food isn't only under-represented, but it’s misrepresented. And so part of why we wanted to open Kachka was to preserve this food. And not just the food, but the food way — the way of eating and drinking that's going away if we don’t tell the story.
What do people not understand about cuisine from the former Soviet Union?
Bonnie: The seasonality. Even Siberia has summers. And then if you look at places like Georgia it’s more Mediterranean. There’s a huge range of ingredients.
Israel: Yes. Russian or Eastern European food isn’t just about beets, cabbage, fur coats and lots of mayo. There’s also cilantro! And exotic spices. Some foods are even grilled!
Why did you publish the first Russian cookbook in the US in a couple decades?
Bonnie: Kachka: A Return to Russian Cooking has a double meaning for me personally. Although I grew up eating it, I shunned it. I didn’t really think about it until Israel got into what my mom was cooking. That was a paradigm shift for me… And if you want to learn about French or Italian food, there are stacks of books to find, classes to take. But if you want the same for Russian food, you just didn't have that info.
Georgia seems to be on the verge as a rising destination.
Bonnie: There was a Food & Wine article about Georgia recently and I thought 'oh people are starting to take interest.' But Georgia has been doing something special for thousands of years. It's just that people are finally paying attention.
Israel: If you had to sum up Georgia in one word, it’s 'hospitable.' Everywhere you look, people are trying to give you food. And they don’t even know who you are. Like Bonnie said, it’s always been this way. I think it is really enticing to people.
Georgians know how to drink really well, don't they?
Bonnie: Yes! In Georgia there’s the tamada, which is a person who is in charge of making sure the wine is flowing and the toasts are moving along at a dinner party. Because in Georgia, and in Russia too, people always drink together. So there has to be a ringleader. Russians actually borrowed the word "tamada" for the Russian language because it’s so important. I love the concept so much. I think it's brilliant it comes from Georgia.
What about Georgia excites you most?
Bonnie: The regionality of khachapuri. It’s often cheese bread (not always) and its shape and ingredients vary from region to region. I want to experience that firsthand and make my own khachapuri map.
Israel: The wine region. Georgia has 8,000 years of uninterrupted wine producing. That’s crazy. They age things in clay vessels underground. That’s very cool right now, but that’s the way it’s been done for thousands of years.
Explore Upcoming Trips with our Tastemakers
Japan with Naomi Pomeroy
Seven days in Japan with award-winning chef Naomi Pomeroy. Immerse yourself in the futuristic world of Tokyo's subways and skyscrapers, tiny ramen shops and tinier speakeasies. Explore ancient traditions in Kyoto, forage for farm-to-table delicacies in Osaka. Naomi's Japan is irresistibly delicious and seriously fun. Join us!
Australia with Gavin Kaysen
Nine days of art, food, culture and hands-on creativity in Australia with chef Gavin Kaysen. We'll hop from Melbourne and Adelaide to the Barossa Valley and Port Lincoln, through sweeping valleys and vineyards, past majestic waterfalls and vibrant city murals—and face-to-face with Australia’s most inspired culinary destinations.
Oaxaca with Traci Des Jardins
Seven days in Oaxaca with two-time James Beard Award-winning chef Traci Des Jardins! We start in Oaxaca City, one of Mexico's colonial masterpieces, then head for the mountains to meet a fourth-generation mezcalero, stand atop Zapotec pyramids, dine with artists in their studios, and kick back in a 300-year-old hacienda. This is Mexico packed with more flavors than you can imagine.