In the Neighborhood: Hanoi's Old Quarter

A World Away

You’ll know when you’ve arrived. Motorbikes zipping and weaving in every direction, overloaded with families and livestock. Homes packed on top of stores, squeezed by railroad. Chattering tradespeople with their blacksmith stalls and eyebrow-trimming stations on street corners. The quiet pagodas, lazy lakeside cafes, and the haunting scents… the way Old Quarter streets fill with the delicious smoke of grilled meat just before sunset. You’re in Hanoi.

When you think of what makes Hanoi such a delicious destination, two things come to mind: pho tiu (Vietnam’s original beef and noodle soup) and cà phê trúng (creamy egg coffee). Hanoi is regarded as the birthplace of these delicious treats, and the Old Quarter is the best place to find original, untouched recipes. Once your appetite is sated, indulge in some traditional sweets, perhaps mung bean pastry or black sesame soup (chi ma phu). Sweet and a little earthy, let your palette expand as you experience these nuanced desserts.

The smell: that’s the first thing that hits you, promising everything in exchange for your soul.
Graham Greene

The famed 36 Streets of Hanoi Old Quarter are named for the commerce each street carried. You can get straight to the heart of the quarter on Hung Dao Street, one of the city’s oldest, a bustling centerfold splitting the west and east sides of the quarter. Long ago, this street held center stage for Vietnam’s famous silk trade, but today, you can find your own ready-made clothing in street front stores.

As you peruse each street, notice the architecture. Once a clever workaround for a bureaucratic tax scheme, these tube houses (nha ong) average 3 meters wide and 60 meters deep. Long ago, store owners were taxed based on the width of their storefront, but the resourceful residents of the Old Quarter engineered long, narrow homes. The family business took the streetfront position. Walk deeper into a traditional home and you’d find the family altar, dining area, and kitchen. To provide ventilation and fresh air, a void in the center of the home lets in light and air from a shaft that extends to the rooftop. Beyond the void, you’d find living and sleeping quarters. Many homes and generations lived, neatly stacked, along the streets of Hanoi. Today, Hanoi builders continue to rely on this design for space efficient housing.

Be sure to seek out Train Street, Ngo 224 Le Dua. Lined with lanterns, flags, and tropical foliage this street is home to the rungs and rails of a working train. Spend an hour at a makeshift cafe, letting the cacophony drown out your inner dialogue. Just remember to tuck in your elbows – the train squeezes through this narrow street leaving just about a meter of space between train car and wall. The locals are used to this, and their nonchalance is inspiring, if mildly terrifying. It’s certainly not a sight to miss.

If at any point the close quarters and tight alleyways leave you dizzy, proceed to the very center of the Old Quarter for a respite on the shore of lake Hoan Kiem. A stroll over the red wooden footbridge and leisurely saunter through lush, verdant green should restore your sense of calm. Of course, if that’s not enough to soothe, you can visit one of the many sacred temples of Hanoi, some dating back to the 9th century. These ornately decorated shrines have been cherished and maintained for thousands of years, and the gilding and engraving of true masters have survived the forces of colonialism.

It’s a city sworn to out-run you, but equally warm in her welcome. Here, we recommend you linger over a strong coffee. Nourish yourself with steaming soups, sipped in unassuming hallway alleys. Discover your own Hanoi.