Emilia Romagna Culinary Tour
with Rob Levitt

Benvenuto in Italia! We begin our culinary tour in Bologna, the culinary heart of Italy. After settling in at the hotel, we set off on a brief walking tour to get our bearings in this historic city. The red porticoes glow in the late afternoon light, and every corner hums with conversation and the scent of espresso and baked sfogliatelle. Alongside a local guide, we wind through medieval alleyways, past Gothic towers and hidden courtyards, gathering a first impression of the city’s distinct rhythm.

Back at the hotel, there’s time to refresh before we gather again for our welcome dinner at a beloved local trattoria. Whether it’s the silky tortellini in brodo or a perfectly caramelized crescentina, the Emilian table offers a warm, generous introduction to the region’s rich culinary tradition.

This morning, we head toward the hills of Zocca, where the air is cooler and the land is stitched with chestnut trees and quiet pasture. At a historic mountain dairy, we learn the centuries-old craft of Parmigiano-Reggiano production. The stars here are the Bianca Modenese cows, whose rich milk is transformed into fragrant wheels of cheese. After sampling fresh and aged varieties, we continue to the village of Savigno. In the kitchen at Amerigo 1934, a Michelin-starred culinary institution, we roll up our sleeves for a hands-on pasta workshop before sitting down to a celebratory lunch of Emilian classics reimagined with elegance.

Later, we join a local tartufai for a truffle hunt in the forested hills. The hush of the woods, the earthy scent of damp leaves, the sudden excitement of discovery—it’s a ritual unchanged for generations. Once we’ve had our fill of uncovering an afternoon’s worth of truffles, we’ll return to Bologna for a well-earned evening at leisure.

We start the day in Modena, a city where fast cars, opera, and deeply rooted culinary heritage converge. First stop: the bustling Albinelli Market, where butchers call out orders and produce stalls overflow with fragrant herbs, purple artichokes, and bright citrus. Here, we’ll shop for the day’s ingredients alongside our cooking host. Back in the kitchen, the city’s flavors come alive through our own hands—perhaps with passatelli, hand-rolled gnocchi, or a rich ragù simmered to perfection. Our lunch is the fruits of our labor, shared with good wine and great company.

In the afternoon, we return to Bologna for time to relax, then regroup for dinner at a celebrated seafood restaurant where coastal flavors are translated with northern flair. Think marinated anchovies, grilled shellfish, and wine as crisp as the Adriatic breeze.

Today we trace a path from the vinegar-rich kitchens of Modena to the sunlit coast of Liguria. Our morning begins at a historic balsamic vinegar factory, where five generations of vinegar-makers have tended wooden casks of aging balsamico in hushed attic rooms. The scent here is syrupy, oaky, and faintly spiced—balsamic that has seen decades pass. After tastings that awaken the palate, we travel to a spot tucked along the misty banks of the Po River, where culatello aging cellars feel like something out of time—cool, dim, and rich with the earthy aroma of centuries-old curing traditions. During our visit, we’ll learn about the process of culatello production, from hand-tied cuts to hay-lined caves, before sitting down together for a rustic lunch where the prized salume is the undeniable centerpiece.

We arrive in Chiavari by late afternoon, check into our hotel, and have time to unwind before dinner at a nearby restaurant that captures the spirit of Ligurian cuisine—bright, herbal, and kissed with olive oil and salt air.

This morning, we delve into Liguria’s artisanal heritage. At a local woodworking atelier, we meet a craftsman preserving ancient techniques by carving boat parts, rolling pins, and boards from fragrant regional woods. The scent of sawdust and varnish fills the air as we observe the delicate balance of tradition and precision.

Next, we stop at a family-run bakery in Recco, famous for its paper-thin focaccia col formaggio. There’s nothing quite like its warm, delicate layers cradling melted cheese with a hint of sea salt. We then continue to a cooking demonstration and lunch where the menu features local staples like trofie with pesto or Ligurian rabbit.

The afternoon is yours to relax or wander Chiavari’s shaded porticoes and breezy seafront promenade. Dinner tonight is at your leisure. Perhaps with a spritz in hand and your toes in the sand is on the agenda.

Start the morning with a sweet note at a family-run institution for a bakery and pastry workshop, where we learn the nuances of Ligurian confections and sample goods such as fresh baci di dama or biscotti scented with lemon and almond. Then it’s inland to Borgonovo, where we meet a small olive oil cooperative preserving centuries-old traditions. Here, the millstones grind slowly and the air is thick with the aroma of crushed fruit. 

Our final dinner is a full-circle celebration held at a family-run tavern where Liguria’s land and sea come together in exquisite form. We begin with a guided tasting of local wines, then settle in for a multi-course meal that lingers into the evening, rich in stories and local pride.

After a final breakfast overlooking the sea or the garden, we say our farewells. Whether continuing your journey onward or heading home, you leave with a deeper sense of Italy’s regional identity—its flavors, its rhythms, and the communities who have lovingly preserved them. Until next time. Ciao!