Northern Spain with Nicholas & Leslie Goellner

Ongietorri! Welcome to the Basque Country, one of Europe’s most ancient cultures, and home to more Michelin stars than any other region of the world. After checking into our hotel (and admiring the titanium-winged Guggenheim Museum just outside our windows), we’ll meet up with Nick & Leslie for a welcome copa, or cocktail, before heading to dinner at a Bilbao institution, its menu a seamless blend of Basque tradition and timeless imagination.

This welcome dinner just might be the perfect manifestation of what’s known around the world as the Bilbao Effect: a seamless blending of old and new, local and global, historic and contemporary. There’s no better place for us to start our adventure together.

Following a leisurely morning in Bilbao, our first stop will be equally dazzling: a jaunt out to the cliffs of San Juan de Gaztelugatxe. Translating literally as “castle island,” this medieval stone castle is connected to the mainland by a narrow, 241-step stone bridge that zigzags back and forth to form one of the world’s grandest staircases. The setting is so stunning and cinematic, we’ll feel like we’ve been here before — and in a way, we have, thanks to HBO’s Game of Thrones, which was filmed here.

After drinking in our fill of sea air and watching seagulls circle over the shimmering blue waters of the Bay of Biscay below, we’ll head to a local winery to sample various local wines, including the iconic txakoli. Txakoli may translate as “cottage wine,” but these light, dry sparklers are anything but humble. Lunch is the main meal of the day in the Basque Country, and ours today will be a “km zero”  meaning that every ingredient has been harvested within less than a mile of where we sit.

We’ll return to Bilbao in the late afternoon, where you’ll have the balance of the day on your own.

Even if you’d never heard of the Googen, as locals affectionately call it, you’d recognize it instantly, its shimmering silver wings and sails arching sleekly skyward like a mythical creature poised for flight. This morning, we’ll enjoy an exclusive insider’s tour of the iconic Frank Gehry–designed museum, getting our fill of giants like Rothko, Warhol, and Serra, as well as visiting areas generally off-limits to the public.

Next, we’ll be saying farewell to Bilbao and heading off to Rioja Alta, one of Spain’s most storied wine regions. Our first stop en route will be at the Conde de los Andes winery. Its traditionally cultivated old vines clamber up from the river toward the sandstone cliffs of the Toloño mountain range, producing silken, citrus-forward whites and plummy, aromatic reds. Conde de los Andes also boasts one of the country’s oldest cellars, a vast, kilometer-long network painstakingly carved by Galician stonemasons back in the 17th century.

Lunch this afternoon is an opportunity to take in the stunning views of the vineyards of Rioja while luxuriating in delicious lamb chops cooked over vine cuttings. Local wine and the warm company make for an almuerzo (traditional lunch) any Spaniard would envy. After lunch, more wine awaits us at Ostatu’s bodega and cellar.

In the evening, we’ll stroll through the narrow cobblestoned streets of Laguardia, a hill-top medieval town surrounded by walls that date all the way back to the 13th century. Tonight’s dinner is a special treat—a Riojan feast of fresh ingredients paired with wine harvested just down the road. 

Crisp, cool mountain air will greet us this morning as we depart Rioja Alta for the mountain hamlet of Santa Cruz de Campezo. Our gentle hike will take us through forests of linden and yew trees, winding past rushing streams, craggy summits, and fields pocked with grazing cattle and small chapels and hermitages.

Now that we’ve worked up an appetite, it’s time for us to add a Michelin star to our belts. Arrea! Chef Edorta Lamo comes from a long line of hunter-gatherers, and his menu is an homage to his ancestors who, lacking land of their own for growing crops or rearing animals, turned instead to the mountains to hunt. As we settle back in the rustic timbered dining room to enjoy hearty dishes like mountain paté with bacon and medlar jam and chickpea stew with cabbage and pork ears, we’ll take some time to reminisce on the first few days of our adventure.

After lunch, we’ll sit back and relax as we meander through the highlands to San Sebastián. It’s a perfect time to sift through photographs, sneak in a siesta, or marvel at the rolling hills and mountains outside.  Once we arrive at our hotel, we’ll take the evening to recharge and hit the streets in the morning.

After breakfast, we’ll take a short trip up to the top of Mount Igueldo, which rises over San Sebastián and offers panoramic views of the city below. It’s a perfect vantage point to capture the stunning topography of Basque Country.

Next, we’ll head back to town to explore the San Martín Market, established in 1870, where many of the city’s best chefs shop daily. Alongside Nick & Leslie, we’ll inspect local delicacies like live snails and smoky Idiazabal cheeses, then select a few to take with us to our next event: a cooking class where we’ll try our hand at preparing traditional Basque dishes.

After a sumptuous lunch dining on our creations, we’ll have time to wander the winding cobblestoned streets of the Parte Vieja on our own, admiring the tree-lined plazas, pearly sandstone buildings and filigreed Belle Époque wrought-iron balconies of the Old Town. Art lovers may consider a pilgrimage to Tabakalera, a converted tobacco factory now boasting six stories of rotating art exhibits, film screenings, and photography displays.

In the evening, we’ll meet up with our local guide for a txikiteo, an epic pintxo crawl searching for the best of the region’s world-famous, toothpick-skewered tapas. We’ll stop here, there and everywhere to sample the likes of plump boquerones, glistening tuna carpaccio, and white asparagus with truffle mayonnaise. Pintxos in one hand and a glass of crisp cider just pulled from the tap in the other, we’ll perch cozily at little standing tables before moving on to the next venue (and the next, and the next).

Today we”ll sleep in before driving along the rugged coastline to Ametzoi Winery, famed for its txakoli. This is also a winemaker that Nick and Leslie partner with in their restaurant. Here, a tasting of their varieties of txakoli awaits, along with local cheeses to complement the tasting notes. Next, a short drive takes the group to Getaria, one of the most important fishing ports in Northern Spain. Here, chefs and restaurants from across the world connect with local distributors to bring the bounty of the Bay of Biscay all over the world.

After returning to San Sebastián with our bellies extremely full, we’ll have the balance of the day to ourselves to continue our wanderings, perhaps embarking upon our own self-directed pintxo crawl tonight before ending the evening with a gin cocktail and a midnight stroll along the promenade.

Today we’ll bop across the border to France to visit the “other” Basque Country. Our first stop will be the village of Irouléguy, which bears the same name as the surrounding small wine appellation—with just over one square mile of vines, some of its slopes are so steep and difficult to hand-harvest that they’ve achieved “heroic appellation” status.

Next, we’ll head on to Biarritz, making a beeline for the markets of Les Halles, where an extravaganza of oysters, escargots, and prawns awaits us. Les Halles has something for every mood: it’s not uncommon for locals to swing by for an early breakfast before work, then return later in the day to slurp back oysters or enjoy a slice of cherry jam- and cream-filled gâteau basque.

We’ll return to San Sebastián in the late afternoon to rest up before our exceptional dinner tonight at a txoko, one of the region’s 200-odd private gastronomic societies. Membership in these societies traditionally passes from father to son, making this a very coveted invitation seldom available to outsiders.

Tonight’s dinner will be one for the ages: Sparkling txakoli wine will be poured from dramatic heights into our glasses, and we may find ourselves breaking into song as we feast on blackthorn liqueur, buttery cheeses, and silken hams. As we raise our glasses to toast our hosts and each other, we’ll understand exactly why the Basques say Adiskide onekin, orduak labur. With a good friend, the hours are short.

Alas, our time together has come to an end. After breakfast and perhaps a farewell morning stroll (including a mad dash for one final pintxo – hey, no judgment!), we’ll bid farewell to San Sebastián, our new friends, and the magic of Northern Spain and the Basque Country.