Vietnam with Nicholas & Leslie Goellner

Welcome to Hanoi, one of Asia’s most mesmerizing capitals. Today is all about familiarizing ourselves with the ancient rhythm of the city, and there’s no better place to do that than at Koto, a restaurant and hospitality training center for at-risk youth. Over a sumptuous spread of regional specialities, we’ll dive head-first into grassroots Vietnam and experience a version of the city that’s rarely found in the guide books. Afterwards, we’ll bid adieu to our Koto hosts and explore the nearby Temple of Literature, an 11th-century Confucian masterpiece thought to be the first University in Vietnam.

Back at the hotel, we’ll reflect on our morning adventures, then make our way over to the Press Club restaurant where a buzzing welcome reception awaits. It’s our elegant appetizer to dinner tonight at La Table Hanoia, where Michelin-star chef Alain Dutournier crafts a superbly delicious, playful menu—think saffron potato risotto with lobster bisque sherbet—in a stunning modern setting. It’s a multi-course celebration of craft and cuisine, and the perfect opportunity to raise our glasses in toast to Nick and Leslie and the many adventures to come.

After breakfast at our hotel this morning, we’re driving through sleepy villages and sun-kissed fields to one of the world’s most iconic seascapes: Halong Bay. Here, a private cruise awaits, ready to float us through an otherworldly landscape of over 2,000 limestone islands jutting from ancient emerald waters. From the boat’s upper deck, we’ll breathe in the symphony of looming, cave-lined karsts, sandy islets, and soaring sea eagles before gathering for a sumptuous lunch onboard. As a special post-meal treat, we’ll settle back for a cup of creamy Vietnamese coffee and Q&A session with Nick and Leslie, our gracious guides for this trip with a deep connection to the land.

Back in Hanoi, we’re in for a night of elevated feasting—literally!—at Cau Go. Perched atop the sixth- and seventh-floors of one of the Old Quarter’s colonial buildings, the award-winning restaurant is a masterpiece of lemongrass and tamarind, of world-class technique and hyperlocal flavor. We’ll drink in the neon panorama of Hanoi at night, then tuck into a formidable spread of local specialties, from fresh salads and crispy spring rolls to immaculately grilled meats.

This morning, we’re diving into the heart of Hanoi with a cyclo ride through the city’s graceful Old Quarter. As we wind through crooked tree-lined lanes, we’ll get a behind-the-scenes look at the city’s old guildhalls and colorful, skinny houses, catching glimpses of vendors hawking gravestones and colorful markets brimming with vibrant silk. Once we’ve familiarized ourselves with the lay of the land, we’ll hop off our bicycles for a closer look at Hanoi’s world-class street food. Alongside an expert guide, Nick and Leslie will lead us through their favorite local eats, from cà phê trúng (creamy egg coffee) to pho tiu (Vietnam’s original beef and noodle soup) at a hidden family-run shop. 

After slurping down our last drops of broth, it’s time to say goodbye to Hanoi and make our way to the airport—Hue awaits. It’s a short flight to Vietnam’s former capital, and from there an even shorter drive to our hotel, a stunning estate nestled against the banks of the Perfume River. We’ll have time to get settled—perhaps even take a dip in the sprawling salt-water pool—before reconvening for dinner tonight at Phu Mong. There, we’re in for a meal fit for royals. The gracious garden house recreates the authentic cuisines of Hue’s past emperors, and each plate is a work of art: think vegetables sculpted into the shapes of animals and crispy stacks of banh khoai (fried rice pancakes).

Our day starts with a leisurely bike ride—we’ll wend our way through verdant rice paddies to the ancient village of Thanh Toan, where we’ll explore the town’s rural market, clan shrine houses, and famous tile-roofed bridge. After lunch at a local favorite, we’ll drive to the elaborate Khai Dinh Royal Tomb and visit Vu Di Tea House to sample an elegant spread of steaming brews. We’re rounding out our adventures with a picturesque boat trip down the Perfume River, complete with a visit to the iconic seven-story Thien Mu pagoda—it’s one of the city’s best-preserved religious monuments—before heading back to our hotel.

After some downtime, we’ll reconvene for dinner by cyclo, Nick and Leslie our guides to the unbeatable flavors of Hue. We’ll warm up with a drink and some light finger food, then wind our way to local restaurants and street food stalls to sample everything from rice with river clams to sizzling lemongrass pork skewers. Don’t be shy about dessert: the region’s famous sweet soups—made from lotus seed, kidney bean, and purple yam—await!

This morning we’re visiting the Royal Home of Tha Om and its stunning grounds. Alongside an acclaimed local historian, we’ll tour this former residence of a Nguyen Dynasty princess, then gather for a sumptuous garden-side lunch. Keeping with the royal theme, we’ll end the afternoon with a stroll through the Imperial Citadel, a UNESCO World Heritage Site and the grounds of the former royal court. 

In the afternoon we’ll bid farewell to Hue and begin our drive to the jewel of central Vietnam: Hoi An. The famous Pass of the Ocean Clouds is our route, and we’ll pause at the crest of this mighty mountain pass to drink in stunning views of the turquoise sea below. In the evening, we’ll have time to get settled in our idyllic Hoi An hotel before reconvening for dinner at the iconic Mango Mango restaurant. The award-winning eatery is an ode to contemporary Vietnamese cuisine, and we’re honored to have Nick walk us through the menu’s global influences before we tuck into our first-class spread.

It’s market day, and we’ll tour Hoi An’s bustling trading post by boat. The experience is a celebration of every sense: the vibrant colors, the cacophony of sounds, the exotic fruits and vegetables. Afterwards, we’re off to a gourmet cooking class led by Nick, Leslie, and local legend Ms. Lu. The trio will teach us the ins-and-outs of knife work and Vietnamese herbs, then we’ll roll up our sleeves to create our very own lunch of local specialities: crab wontons, papaya salad, and muc nhoi thit (squid stuffed with pork).  

It’s a memorable lunch, and one we’ll follow with a walk through the city’s historic Old Town. This picturesque riverside city was a major trading port for centuries, and mansions built by merchants still line the narrow streets of the Old Quarter. We’ll stop to admire temples, artisan workshops, and the bustling fish market, then visit the home of a master lantern-craftsman to learn more about the history, shape, and color of the lanterns—we’ll even have a chance to create our own.

In the evening we’ll meet up for dinner at Morning Glory, an open-kitchen eatery with a range of elevated house specialties, from shrimp mousse on sugarcane skewers to banana leaf-wrapped eggplant and pork.

We’re hopping back on our bicycles this morning, passing through lush green rice paddies and grazing water buffaloes on our way to the water coconut forests of Cam Thanh. After trying our hand at fishing and crabbing in a traditional basket boat, we’re heading to the farming community of Tra Que, where we’ll roll up our sleeves to help harvest vegetables from the village garden. After a juggernaut of morning, we’ll reflect and pause for Vietnamese-style self care—an herbal foot massage to revitalize our tired muscles.

Later, we’ll join Nick and Leslie in the home of a local family for a masterclass in traditional cooking techniques followed by a hearty, garden-fed lunch. From there, the afternoon is ours to explore our scenic surroundings—we won’t meet up again until the evening for a Hoi An favorite: a street food tour by vintage Vespa. We’ll zoom through the city’s bustling streets to an islet lit by dancing lanterns, then dismount our Vespas and hop onto a boat for a slow river cruise, joining locals for a few cold brews and starters. After disembarking, we’ll settle in for our main course—fiery Vietnamese barbecue at one of the city’s most innovative kitchens.

This morning we’re up bright and early for our short flight to Ho Chi Minh City. From the airport, we’ll embark straightaway on an immersive tour of the fabled city and its bustling streets, stopping to take in thought-provoking monuments like the Burning Monk Memorial and reveling in the French architecture.

After lunch at a beloved local eatery, we’re diving into the world of cocktails. P’Ti Saigon restaurant is renowned for its bold flavors and innovative fusions, and this afternoon it’s our private cocktail-making playground as Leslie, Nick, and an expert in-house bartender lead us through the fine art of shaking, muddling, and straining all our favorite drinks. Once we’ve savored the fruits of our labor alongside a sumptuous dinner spread, we’re rounding out the day in quintessential Saigon fashion: with a night of lively tunes, cold beers, and bellyache-inducing laughs at one of the city’s most iconic karaoke bars. 

After our urban adventures yesterday, we’re excited to dive into rural Vietnam. Southwest of Ho Chi Minh City are the spidery tributaries of the mighty Mekong River—they’re home to the bulk of the country’s produce and rice production. We’ll cruise through the waters to one of the region’s iconic floating markets, where vendors balance stacks of heavy melons on narrow wooden boats and hawk fiery chiles on bamboo poles. Once we’ve gotten a feel for river life, we’ll dock our boats on Tan Phong Island and mount bikes for a short cycling tour through the shaded roads of the village. Lunch is an unforgettable experience, a banquet of delicacies sourced along the Delta and served up family-style at the home of a local host. 

After our time in the countryside, it’s back to the city for a night of celebration. Our farewell dinner at Hoa Tuc—a former opium refinery turned Art Deco row house—is a joyful reminder of our time together in Vietnam, and alongside Leslie and Nick we’ll recount our favorite memories over a spread of fresh spring rolls and hyperlocal seafood. After dinner, the night is yours to explore. You’ll find us at one of the city’s chic rooftop bars, nursing an unhurried nightcap in this city that never sleeps.

It’s time to bid goodbye to Vietnam, Leslie, Nick, and our new friends. With all that we’ve experienced and tasted, we know it won’t be long before we return to this magical land.