Republic of Georgia with Nicholas & Leslie Goellner

Gamarjoba! Welcome to Georgia’s lively, artful and ancient capital of Tbilisi. Today we jump right in, exploring the city from cobblestone alley to mountaintop, scaling fortresses and visiting grand Soviet monuments before losing ourselves amongst slick modern galleries and coffee shops found in the twisting backstreets of the Old Town.

Next, we’ll take a deep dive into Georgia’s iconic cheese bread, with a hands-on-master class to learn to bake our own khachapuri while sipping local, organic wine. In the evening, we’ll experience the Supra, a Georgian dinner custom which features countless authentic dishes and a handful of toasts as well. Not only will we have our own tamada (local toastmaster), but a polyphonic vocal ensemble will perform between courses. Not too bad for day one!

After a big breakfast, we get a taste of the Caucasus on a century-spanning day trip that takes in UNESCO-protected mountaintop monasteries and the roots of one of the oldest wines in the world. Our road ahead weaves through the mountains to the cave town of Uplistsikhe, hewn from the rock and continuously occupied for more than 2,000 years. Next, we get serious with wine at Château Mukhrani, one of Georgia’s oldest and highly regarded vineyards, for a tour and tasting over lunch. And what better way to end a meal in Georgia then with a live Khridoli martial-arts performance that mixes wrestling, boxing, fencing and archery.

In the afternoon, we’re off to visit the ancient village of Mtskheta, where a sacred 4th-century Jvari Monastery looks down from vertical cliffs above–we’ll go up to learn about its history and take in sprawling mountain views. We return to Tbilisi in time for a hands-on cooking class and dinner with Leslie and Nicholas at Culinarium Khasheria, a test kitchen and restaurant owned by top Georgian chef, Tekuna Gachechildze.

Today we explore verdant Kakheti on a daytrip to the heart of Georgia’s wine country that’s home to over 500 varieties of grapes. The route is a breathless thrill, as we pass sweeping views of rolling hills and vineyards and hilltop villages backed by snow-capped Caucasus peaks. We start with a visit at a local vineyard to see how unfiltered wine is still fermented using traditional methods: filling qvevri clay pots with foot-stomped grapes, and burying them in the earth. 

Next we savor the robust glory of Georgian wine at lunch, then finish with a walk through the atmospheric, historic village of Signagi. Finally, on the way back to Tbilisi, we’ll stop by the tranquil village of Nukriani and learn how to make Churchkela (a candle-shaped sticky sweet) from the women who run the local community organization. 

Up, up and away! Today we shift our home base to Kazbegi, one of the highest inhabited points in the majestic Caucasus mountain range, threading our way ever upward along sheer cliffs to catch a glimpse of mountain life. Lunch is a treat: In the kitchen of a local family, we”ll learn several ways to prepare khinkali dumplings and dine in true highland tradition.  For dessert, we’ll sip some fiery chacha, a Georgian “moonshine” made from grapes. 

In the afternoon, we’ll traipse along the buttresses of a 13th-century castle before heading off to our mountain aerie of a hotel for a dinner in the mountain air followed by a good night’s sleep.

Fill up on a big breakfast. Today we’re hitting the mountains, by foot (car transport is also an option). First, we take a half-day hike up up up to the Gergeti Trinity Church, the national symbol of Georgia. You won’t forget the view. After an hour-and-a-half trek up, we reach a 14th-century cross-cupola church soaring 7,000 feet above sea level like a lost eagle in flight. 

We celebrate our hike with a well-deserved lunch of local dishes served in a cozy family guesthouse, then follow the trails back down to our hotel for a relaxing evening. Try your luck at roulette, have a rejuvenating soak in the pool, or enjoy the spa–or maybe all of the above.

We head back to Tbilisi today on a roadtrip you won’t forget. We explore Kazbegi National Park’s gorges and lush mountains, then take a specially arranged 4WD drive to the elusive Gveleti waterfall, named for its snakelike slivering spray backed by cliffs. We follow with a sprawling lunch with a family in the tiny Caucasus village of Tsdo, then reach Tbilisi with time for some last-minute souvenir shopping, finished with a music- and dance-filled farewell feast of Georgian food–and lots of wine. Be ready to take your turn as tamada as we celebrate the traditions and flavors, and our unforgettable time together, in the Republic of Georgia.

Alas, our time in Georgia together is done. We’ll pack up, say our goodbyes and take back our new found appreciation of the Caucasus—and of our new friends! See you next time.