Peru with Jose Luis Chavez

Bienvenidos a Peru! We dive right into Lima, where history clings to every wall and the ocean mist drifts up from the cliffs. We begin in Pueblo Libre, home to the Larco Museum, a former viceregal mansion perched on a pre-Columbian platform. Its galleries are a tactile introduction to Peru’s ancient civilizations—ceremonial ceramics, gold burial masks, and intricately woven textiles. Nearby, we step into Casa Aliaga, one of the oldest continually inhabited homes in the Americas. Passed down through seventeen generations, its baroque interiors echo with conquistador legends and family lore.

As the day softens into evening, we take the coastal road, the Pacific unfolding to one side, palm-lined parks to the other. Dinner is served in a dining room among the world’s most celebrated culinary establishments. The menu reads like a love letter to Peru’s coastline and microclimates. Think chirimoya layered into unexpected textures, fresh seafood drawn from nearby waters, and native potatoes elevated to sculpture. White wine cuts the richness, the salt air lifts the palate, and the city lights begin to flicker behind us.

Mornings in Surquillo Market are a full-body experience—ripe mangoes perfuming the air, clatter from vendors arranging their stalls, the flash of silver-scaled fish laid over mounds of crushed ice. As we navigate the narrow aisles, a local chef explains the role of ají amarillo in Peruvian cuisine, how its sunny heat adds depth without overwhelming. Limes are tested for bite; cilantro is torn for aroma.

From market to kitchen, we chop, marinate, and plate under expert guidance. Ceviche is not just a dish—it’s a rhythm of acidity, freshness, and balance, grounded in coastal heritage and built from the ground up.

In the afternoon, there’s time to unwind at the hotel before we reconvene for a tour of Barranco. As we walk, Lima is revealed at its most expressive—color-washed facades, iron balconies, and the quiet hum of studios and cafés where artists and musicians have long made their home. In a neighborhood park, we pause for anticuchos sizzling over open coals and warm picarones, crisp at the edges and glossy with syrup, eaten slowly as the light softens.

Later, dinner is left open, with plenty of recommendations should you wish to keep tasting long into the night.

Today we move into the Andes! We rise early for a flight to Cusco and descend into the Sacred Valley, where the air feels thinner, cleaner, edged with the scent of eucalyptus. In Chinchero, we join an Indigenous farming community in the fields to help harvest oca and quinoa, pulling vegetables from the earth, brushing off soil. These ingredients anchor a traditional pachamanca—a meal slow-cooked under hot stones with herbs and smoke. We eat with our hands, seated together in the shade. The flavors are elemental and rich, the hospitality, unforgettable.

After, a local shaman welcomes us to a traditional ceremony. We sit on woven blankets in a circle, surrounded by Andean peaks, as smoke rises from smoldering herbs. One by one, offerings—coca leaves, corn, wine—are laid into a bundle and buried with gratitude to Pachamama, the Earth Mother.

The ceremony gives way to taste. At a small distillery, we sample a rare elixir made from local botanicals—fermented wild herbs, roots, and flowers that carry the bitterness of altitude and the sweetness of the valley in equal measure.

That evening, dinner at the hotel is slow and restorative, with dishes that feel rooted in the landscape outside your window.

We’re getting deeper into the roots of one of the greatest empires in history. Today begins at Moray, where concentric terraces form ancient agricultural test labs, still echoing with Incan ingenuity. The design—amphitheater-like and built with microclimates in mind—reveals a civilization deeply attuned to the rhythms of the earth. These patterns of knowledge echo through the day.

Lunch is served at MIL, the high-altitude culinary laboratory helmed by Virgilio Martínez, Peru’s most celebrated chef. The experience is not just a meal but a deep study in elevation. Each of the eight courses represents a different ecological level of the Andes—cushuro from the cloud forest, tubers from the puna, grains harvested from nearby terraces.

After lunch, we continue to Maras, where thousands of shallow, glistening salt pans cascade down a hillside. Each pan belongs to a family, passed through generations and harvested with the same ancient method—sun, water, patience. Before dinner, we pause for a tasting of chicha de jora, a lightly fermented corn beer once brewed for Incan ceremonies. As we sip, our guide shares the drink’s storied past—how it was poured for the gods before it ever touched human lips, and why its tart, earthy flavor still carries the soul of the Andes.

Dinner tonight is hosted by a local family of collectors who welcome us into their antique-filled home for a meal of traditional Peruvian fare—perhaps the menu includes ají de gallina in a creamy pepper sauce or seco de cordero with cilantro and chicha.

Today our journey continues to Ollantaytambo, where stone terraces climb toward the sky and the air begins to shift with anticipation. Here, a scenic train ride winds through river gorges and cloud forest toward Aguas Calientes—or for the more adventurous, a guided hike along the Inca Trail reveals the full magnitude of what lies ahead.

As you ascend past the ruins of Wiñayhuayna, orchids sway in the filtered light and the canopy hums with life. The final climb is steep, carved from centuries-old stone. And then—Intipunku. The Sun Gate. Through the haze and shadow, Machu Picchu reveals itself, suspended between sky and jungle, a city that seems both impossibly distant and vividly near.

We arrive in Aguas Calientes in the fading light. At our cloud forest hotel, the air is thick with mist and the scent of wet stone. Over dinner or a quiet glass of wine, we reflect on what we’ve just seen—and what still waits tomorrow.

This morning returns us to Machu Picchu, where the clouds drift away like a curtain lifting on an ancient stage. With a local guide, we trace the stone corridors and ceremonial spaces, from the Temple of the Sun to the terraces that once fed an empire. Each weathered stone tells a story of sacred geometry, mountain worship, and quiet resilience.

Later, we descend to the banks of the Urubamba River, where lunch is served at Café Inkaterra—a sanctuary of orchids, wood beams, and mountain air. Local trout, native corn, Andean herbs—every ingredient feels precisely of this place.

That afternoon, we board the train back to Cusco, the Sacred Valley slipping past the windows in a blur of eucalyptus, farmland, and light. By evening, we arrive at our historic hotel, where terracotta rooftops and baroque balconies await. Once arrived, dinner is yours to embellish.

Today, Cusco wakes with bells and footsteps, its streets alive with color, history, and the scent of warm bread. This morning, we step into a private kitchen to master two cornerstones of Peruvian hospitality: the pisco sour and a series of rustic, highland dishes shaped by seasonality and spice.

Lunch is served outdoors—stone tables, flickering candles, dishes that nod to the Apus, the sacred mountain spirits. There’s time in the afternoon for a final wander: perhaps an art gallery, a handwoven textile shop, or simply a café overlooking the Plaza de Armas.

Tonight, we gather for one last celebration. In a candlelit room with soft music and impeccable service, our farewell dinner unfolds course by course. The flavors are both new and familiar—rocoto and rabbit, quinoa and citrus—and the stories shared over wine feel like the perfect closing chapter to this deeply felt journey.

Our last morning begins with a quiet walk through Saqsayhuamán, the ancient fortress whose massive stone blocks fit so precisely, no mortar is needed. As the city stirs below, we trace the outline of Cusco’s mythic past.

In Siete Borreguitos, artists’ murals color the alleyways and flowering balconies lean over blue doors. We take our time—there’s no rush.

After a final lunch or coffee on your own, we transfer to the airport, the weight of altitude and memory now part of the body. Peru leaves its mark not with spectacle, but with depth. It lingers. Buen viaje!