Georgia with Alice Feiring

Gamarjoba! Welcome to Georgia’s lively, artful and ancient capital of Tbilisi.

We’ll arrange transfers from the airport to our hotel so you can check in and freshen up. We’ll meet up in the evening at our hotel for dinner with our tastemakers and fellow travelers.

Over a light array of Georgian specialties, we’ll get acquainted with each other and plot our course for the next 9 days of exploration!

Today we jump right in, exploring the ancient city of Tbilisi from cobblestone alley to mountaintop, scaling fortresses and visiting grand Soviet monuments before losing ourselves amongst slick modern galleries and coffee shops found in the twisting backstreets of Tbilisi’s Old Town.

Lunch will be at Vino Underground, Tbilisi’s first natural wine bar.

In the evening we’ll experience the Supra, a Georgian dinner custom that features countless traditional dishes and a handful of toasts. We will celebrate with our own tamada (local toastmaster) and a polyphonic vocal ensemble that will perform between courses. Not too bad for day two!

After a big breakfast, we get a taste of the Caucasus on a century-spanning day trip that takes in UNESCO-protected mountaintop monasteries and the roots of one of the oldest wines in the world. Our road ahead weaves through the mountains to the cave town of Uplistsikhe, hewn from the rock and continuously occupied for more than 2,000 years.

Next, we get serious with wine at one of Georgia’s most heralded vineyards, for a tour and tasting over lunch. And what better way to end a meal in Georgia then with a live Khridoli martial-arts performance that mixes wrestling, boxing, fencing and archery.

In the afternoon, we’re off to visit the ancient village of Mtskheta, where a sacred 4th-century Jvari Monastery looks down from vertical cliffs above–we’ll go up to learn about its history and take in sprawling mountain views.

We return to Tbilisi for dinner on our own.

Today we explore verdant Kakheti, the heart of Georgia’s wine country that’s home to over 500 varieties of grapes. The route is a breathless thrill, as we pass sweeping views of rolling hills and vineyards and hilltop villages backed by snow-capped Caucasus peaks. We start with a visit at a local vineyard to see how unfiltered wine is still fermented using traditional methods: filling qvevri clay pots with foot-stomped grapes, and burying them in the earth. 

Next, we’ll take a walk around the fortress grounds of Signagi, immersing ourselves in this 18th-century walled hamlet, locally known as the city of love. And just when our stomachs start to rumble, we’ll find ourselves  at Lost Ridge, a dynamic eco-community within the tiny village called Qedeli. Formerly a dusty forgotten neighborhood, Lost Ridge is a thriving collective, which hosts an inn, ranch, brewery, greenhouses and orchards too. Here, we’ll roll up our sleeves for a Georgian bread-making class in their fire kitchen, followed by a craft beer—they specialize in farmhouse ales and saisons—tutorial and tasting.

We’ll check into our hotel, a new boutique built on the grounds of the palatial home of a former Georgian prince, in the late afternoon, and we’ll have the rest of the day to ourselves. Sit by the pool or follow us to the incredible Library Bar for a seasonal scratch cocktail or two.

Today we travel back to the 1st century to ancient Telavi, a historical waypost for merchants and peddlers between the Middle East and Europe. After a deep dive into the town’s storied past, we’ll head to the outskirts and go even further back in time. In the picturesque village of Vardisubani, we’ll witness firsthand the ancient qvevri, 200- to 900-gallon earthenware vessels used in fermenting and storing organic Georgian wines for more than 8,000 years.

Up, up and away! Today we shift our home base to Kazbegi, one of the highest inhabited points in the majestic Caucasus mountain range, threading our way ever upward along sheer cliffs to catch a glimpse of mountain life—we’ll traipse along the buttresses of a 13th-century castle before heading down for an incredible, hearty lunch.

In the kitchen of a local family, we”ll learn several ways to prepare khinkali dumplings and dine in true highland tradition.  For dessert, we’ll sip some fiery chacha, a Georgian ‘moonshine’ made from grapes. 

In the afternoon, we’ll check into our mountain hotel and reconvene for a simple yet exquisite dinner, followed by a good night’s sleep. 

Fill up on a big breakfast. Today we’re hitting the mountains, by foot (car transport is also an option). First, we take a half-day hike up up up to the Gergeti Trinity Church, the national symbol of Georgia. You won’t forget the view. After an hour-and-a-half trek up, we reach a 14th-century cross-cupola church soaring 7,000 feet above sea level like a lost eagle in flight. 

We celebrate our hike in style over an elaborate lunch with a family in the tiny Caucasus village of Tsdo, then follow the trails back down to our hotel for a relaxing evening. Try your luck at roulette, have a rejuvenating soak in the pool, or enjoy the spa–or maybe all of the above.

We head back to Tbilisi today on a roadtrip you won’t forget. We explore Kazbegi National Park’s gorges and lush mountains, then take a specially arranged 4WD drive to the elusive Gveleti waterfall, named for its snakelike slivering spray backed by cliffs. Just outside of town, we’ll enjoy lunch at a local cafe and learn some Georgian village cooking tips from the chef.

In the afternoon our trip comes full circle as we return to Tbilisi with time for some last-minute souvenir shopping, finished with a music- and dance-filled farewell feast of Georgian food–and lots of wine. Be ready to take your turn as tamada as we celebrate the traditions and flavors, and our unforgettable time together, in Georgia.

Alas, our time in Georgia together has come to end. It’s been an incredible week exploring this incredible country and its culture, cuisine and wine.

After breakfast we’ll pack up, say our farewells and our mutual appreciation of the Caucasus—and of our new friends—and transfer to Tbilisi International Airport (TBS). We recommend your flight from TBS departs no earlier than 12:30pm. See you next time!