Portugal with Fishwife

Welcome to Lisbon, the ancient city that seems to drift in the salt-tinged breeze and home to azulejo tiles, winding cobblestoned alleys and charming pastel buildings. We’ll start in the afternoon with cocktails at the hotel, and just as the sun begins to set, we’ll set off for our welcome dinner.

Our destination? Chef José Avillez’s culinary haven, Bairro do Avillez, with diverse eating areas inspired by Portugal’s regional specialties. We’ll dine outside on their stunning páteo as the city hums below us. It’s the perfect start for the week of cultural immersion ahead.

We begin by immersing ourselves in Lisbon’s daily bustle: wandering through the historic district of Belém where landmarks like the Belém Tower and Mosteiro Dos Jerónimos stand as magnificent architectural marvels. If you’re suddenly tantalized by the aroma of custard tarts, there’s no need for alarm; for decades the Pastéis de Belém have drawn travelers from the cobbled streets and into their modest bakeries.

Hold that thought for now as the city center beckons where we’ll visit the world-famous Conserveira de Lisboa. Founded in 1930, this shop is a gathering place for locals intent on fixing a true Sunday feast; here, we’ll lean on Becca’s knowledge as we learn about the tinned fish conserves—cod, sardines, tuna, salmon, octopus, mackerel, eel, and trout.

Our next stop is lunch with a wine pairing from the Douro Valley, the same region we’ll visit later in the week. Our dessert is a surprise, but let’s just say it has something to do with custard and pastries, and you may just have the opportunity to make it yourself. We’ll cap our incredible day in true Portuguese style, with a local supper and an unforgettable live Fado performance, where we’ll revel in what’s been the “soul of Portuguese music” for two centuries.

Today, we leave behind beloved Lisbon to take in the Douro Valley, a region regularly considered as one of the most beautiful places on the planet. Along the way, one glorious pit stop awaits—we’ll honor the story of sea salt by touring the largest salinas (salt pan) on the Iberian peninsula. Portugal’s salinas are traditional ponds where seawater is channeled into shallow pools to evaporate under the sun and wind, the salts then gathered by hand. It’s an ancient industry, and a truly breathtaking sight.

After a casual lunch, we’ll reach our breathtaking riverside base, deep in the Douro Valley. Here we’ll rest riverside with a glass of Port, dusk fading into a starlit evening, and regroup for dinner—and a toast—to our new home.

After coffee and breakfast overlooking the river, we’ll assume the life of an 18th-century Portuguese trader. Jump aboard a flat-bottomed Rabelo boat and we’ll head upriver. It’s a timeless experience—sit back, listen to local accordion players and enjoy the gentle ride to Quinta do Seixo. Here, alongside local winemakers, we go behind the scenes at the vineyard and taste directly from barrels.

After lunch—paired with local wines, of course—the afternoon and evening are all yours. Relax poolside at the hotel on the Douro River, spend time with your fellow travelers on the patio as the sun sets. For the more intrepid, take in local art with an evening stroll through the riverside town of Pinhão, famed for tile-covered bridges.

We’ve sampled Portugal’s history, impeccable wines, and culinary classics. Today our connection with the region’s roots go deeper—and more literal—on a fun day of creating, learning and celebrating with Becca.

We’ll gather and harvest the essential ingredients for a splendid lunch, then proceed to Casa dos Viscondes das Várzea—an elegant 17th-century manor owned by a local female chef. With Becca leading by example, we’ll craft an unforgettable meal, utilizing our freshly picked ingredients and locally curated wines. Our efforts will culminate in a rewarding al fresco feast, set against a backdrop reminiscent of a captivating landscape painting or the pages of a glossy magazine.

After we eat, we’ll return to our hotel for an easygoing late afternoon, only to reconvene for meal unlike anything else we’ll eat in Portugal. Centered around expansive wood-burning ovens, Bomfim 1896, helmed by Pedro Lemos, conjures the essence and aromas of an authentic Douro kitchen—during the meal, we’ll take a moment to reflect on the day and toast the adventure ahead.

Our Portuguese exploration continues alongside the Rio Douro, leading us to the captivating coastal enclave of Porto. En route, we’ll traverse enchanting gardens, endless vineyards, and delve into the world of tinned fish! Nestled in Matosinhos, an industrial quarter on the fringes of Porto, we’ll enjoy an exclusive glimpse into the storied Pinhais & Cia cannery, renowned for its mastery of sardines since 1920. It’s a shining synergy of the finest local catch, the freshest ingredients, and time-honored secret recipes perfected over generations; a cherished passion of Becca’s, this experience is bound to infuse a vibrant palette into the meals for the remainder of our journey.

After lunch on Matosinhos’ seafront, we’ll arrive in central Porto and settle into our elegant base camp for the next two evenings. Dinner tonight is at a local tapas restaurant sampling just-caught bacalhau (cod) and other traditional Porto seafood dishes.

We start our full day in Porto on foot, with a tour through the streets of Old Town, ducking into small cafes, tascas (taverns), and colorful food markets. We’ll watch fishermen arrive, nets full with the catch of the day, and decipher the tales told of Porto’s ceramic azulejo tiles adorning churches and subway station walls. After relaxing over a leisurely lunch together, the afternoon is yours to explore—sit by the sea, shop for mementos, or people-watch in the UNESCO World Heritage Ribeira District.

Tonight, we’ll gather for a private farewell feast at W&J Graham’s, its 19th-century cellars stocked with 3,000 barrels of gently aging wines. We’ll toast our time together with Becca over vintage ports and plates of fresh seafood and local meats, with views over Porto and the Douro River. It’s the ideal setting for our joyful farewell.

After our final breakfast at the hotel, we bid farewell to Becca and our fellow travelers—hearts and spirits full of all things Portugal. Then it’s off to Porto’s airport, or to catch trains back to Lisbon. Until next time! Obrigada e adeus, Portugal!