Piedmont with Scribe Winery

Benvenuto a Torino! Today we take in the beauty of the Piedmont region in Turin, with its Baroque buildings, stone streets and towering Alps backdrop. Our first taste of the city is a literal one: a behind-the-scenes food tour of Turin’s fabled markets. We’ll sample regional cheese, lunch on seasonal delicacies, and last but not least, we’ll dive into the beautifully complex world of Italian chocolate. We’ll start with one of the city’s proudest inventions, a steaming Bicerin made of espresso, drinking chocolate, and milk. We’ll reconvene in the evening for a pre-dinner aperitif and introduction to Turin’s Slow Food movement—a theme we’ll be exploring deliciously during the week ahead—followed by a three-course welcome dinner at Il Consorzio as the sun sets behind the Alps.

Today we go straight to the source of Piedmont’s Slow Food movement—the idyllic and untouched countryside. As baroque architecture gives way to rolling hills, our first stop is one of La Morra’s most storied wineries, Agricola Brandini. Far from your standard “wine tour,” this tasting and tutorial is an in-depth and hands-on introduction to the region’s finest varietals. After lunching trattoria-style with the winemaker, a friend of Kelly’s, we’ll make our way to the village of Barolo, where we’ll visit the enoteca of Marchesi di Barolo and sample even more of the flagship wines of the region. 

Sated by historic vintages and still full from lunch, we’ll settle down for the evening in Monforte, a storybook village among vineyards where we’ll take up residence in a restored 18th-century villa. Dinner—maybe a homemade tagliolini from a local osteria—will be on your own tonight.

We’ll start the morning by meeting a legendary butcher in Bra, a village that epitomizes the rural Slow Food phenomenon. After sampling fine salami and sausage unique to the region, we’ll wander the market before cozying up for coffee and sweets at Bra’s historic pasticciera.  We’ll let the espresso propel us onward until we wind up at the University of Pollenzo, an institution of gastronomic science dedicated to the Slow Food movement and Kelly’s alma mater. Here, we’ll turn to Kelly as she guides us through a hands-on cooking class—the ingredients and recipe inspired by all the discoveries we’ve made so far. Finally, we’ll be invited to sample from the university’s coveted wine bank, a centuries-old cellar filled with vintages so rare they have to be kept in a vault!

The day will also include a Slow Food seminar and tour of the unique university before returning to our villa for a little rest and relaxation. Don’t call it a night though, because a truly memorable dinner awaits: We have reservations at L’Osteria dell’Arco, considered the Slow Food restaurant of the entire region.

The hunt is on for truffles! Led by an expert trifolau, you’ll retreat to the forest with specially trained dogs for a guided experience on locating, identifying and cooking up these flavorful fungi. And because a day of truffles deserves a hearty pairing, we’ll grab some apertifs and sit right down for an exquisite, rustic lunch.

What’s next? One of the region’s most picturesque wineries, Fontanafredda.  After a private tasting of their award-winning vintages, we’ll practically float back to our villa just in time for sunset. Sip a cocktail by the pool and enjoy a stroll into town for a casual group meal.

We wouldn’t dream of going to Piedmont without coming home with hazelnuts. Today, we say ciao to Monforte and find ourselves wandering the rows of a majestic, organic hazelnut grove. Here, we’ll sample all kinds of local favorites and learn about their handed-down harvest techniques.

Next up, Kelly has curated a feast of the senses at Giovanni Rosso. We’ll sip wines grown just a stone’s throw away while we work our way through courses upon courses of local cuisine—Tajarin al burro, anyone?

We’ll then wind our way to Gavi and the stunning Villa Sparina, our home for the next two nights. After some free time to stroll the grounds or dip into the pool, we’ll descend into their 17th-century wine cellar to sip their finest varietals and nibble on homemade sausage and focaccia.

We kick off the day at one of the most acclaimed new wineries in the region, La Raia, whose mission statement is basically a love letter to Piedmont and its people. We’ll learn firsthand their biodynamic methods and how each step is designed to encourage biodiversity, reduce pollution and preserve the farm for the next generation. We’ll drink soft reds and mercurial whites in between flights of local goat cheeses from a nearby farm. After a stroll around the picturesque grounds, we’ll convene for lunch at Locanda, with dishes personally selected by Michelin-star Chef Tommaso Arrigoni.

We’ll return to the Villa Sparina for a lesson in Piedmont’s preferred aperitif—vermouth. Led by a renowned mixologist, we’ll use local spirits and recipes to craft the perfect afternoon pick-me-up. After some rest and relaxation, we’ll join Kelly and a master chef for our farewell dinner. Set in a rustic barn on the Villa Sparina estate, this meal will feature plates upon plates of Piedmont’s staples – a perfect end to a very special week in Piedmont. 

All good things must come to an end. We’ll soak up the last of our time together over a big farewell breakfast before bidding our final goodbye to Kelly and the rest of the traveling crew. Until next time, ciao!