French Alps: Grand Traverse | Outside+

Bienvenue à la grande traversée! Starting in Chamonix, at the base of Mont Blanc, we’ll grab our day packs and make our way to Megève, where we start the ascent over the grassy slopes of Mont de Vores. From the summit, we’ll make a long traverse in the shadow of the aptly named Aiguille Croche, or Eighth Needle, to reach Col de Véry, where we’re treated to magnificent panoramic vistas of the Mont Blanc range.

In the afternoon, we’ll venture down to the scenic mountain town of Hauteluce, with its Baroque chapel and wooden chalets, then drive to Beaufort, the birthplace of the eponymous raw-milk cheese (a delicacy since Roman times). We’ll celebrate our first day together with a well-earned evening feast.

Day 1: 10 miles, 7 hours, 2,977′ gain

Be greeted by the cerulean blue waters of Lac de Roselend as we make our way to the trailhead, which overlooks a winding path along the ridge of Le Mont des Acrays toward the base of the “Giant’s Tooth” peak of the Pierra Menta. At the Col du Couvercle, take in sweeping views of the southern edge of the Mont Blanc range and the summits of the Vanoise—another stunning view on a trip that’s full of them! Next we descend into the Tarentaise Valley, the former capital of the pre-Roman Centrones tribe, past the rushing Isère River before driving to Landry village to spend the night in comfort.

The following day we enter Vanoise National Park. Be on the lookout for ibexes and marmots wandering among the park’s dramatic jagged peaks, and as we start our ascent to Col de Plan Sery, stop to admire the crimson-veined marble, fossils preserved in limestone, and 1,000-plus different types of flora. Up here, the meadows are carpeted with edelweiss flowers and the feeling is pure Alpine majesty. At the foot of the Bellecote summit, we’ll hike down to the valley of Champagny, then transfer to the village of Pralognan for the night.

Day 2: 7.5 miles, 6.5 hours, 2,925′ gain/loss
Day 3: 10.5 miles, 8 hours, 3,850′ gain/loss

We’ll drive to nearby Le Post de la Pêche to start our hike over smooth, rolling hills to the Alpine farming area of Le Ritord. Here, local artisans continue to honor centuries-old cheese-making traditions, and we’ll stop in for a taste.

Venturing off the main trail, we head to Col d’Aussois, the highest we’ll cross on our entire traverse. The pass is wedged between the ridge of the Pointe de l’Echelle (11,227 ft) and the southern tips of the Domes de la Vanoise and the Dent Parrachée (12,129 ft). After crossing the col, we’ll begin our descent through fields of grazing ibex to the lake of Le Plan d’Amont, its cool turquoise waters teeming with rainbow trout. For the evening we transfer to Aussois, famous for its “land-art trail” of outdoor sculptures by local artists.

Day 4: 10.6 miles, 8.5 hours, 3,933′ gain/loss

Begin the day with a drive to Modane, across the Maurienne Valley, on our way to the small ski resort of Valfréjus. Here we’ll begin an easy and scenic ascent toward the open col of Vallée Etroite. Reaching our vantage point in this narrow valley at the foot of Mount Thabor, a borderland area that retains a strong Italian flavor, enjoy beautiful views of the summits of the Vanoise region. On our way down, we’ll edge along wild streams and through alpine meadows to the huts of the Vallée Etroite. We’ll then continue over Col des Thures and down to the luminous Vallée de la Clarée, and rest our heads in Briançon for the night.

The next morning we’re off to Villard St Pancrace by car, then into Queyras National Park, known for its dramatic rock formations and beautiful meadows. Our hike begins in the hamlet of Chalets des Ayes, and continues up a forested stream to a summer farming region just beneath Col des Ayes. In the afternoon, we make our way up to the lovely hamlet of Clapeyto and enjoy a stunning view of the valley below. We’ll then continue down to the village of Brunissard and transfer to St Véran for the evening.

Day 5: 13.5 miles, 7.5 hours, 3,669′ gain/loss
Day 6: 8 miles, 6.5 hours, 3,336′ gain/loss

Today we start our hike at the Chapelle de Clausis and continue to La Blanche. With a short climb to Col Blanchet, we briefly step foot in Italy, in an area that has been the conduit for trans-Alpine invasions since the Roman times. Through the vast Col de Longet, we make our way back into France, and descend slowly and gently through Alpine meadows and along the Ubaye river valley to Maljesset before spending the night in Barcelonnette.

Day 7: 14 miles, 8.5 hours, 2,491′ gain/loss

Crossing Col de la Bonette, the highest driving pass in Europe, we’ll head to Saint-Martin-Vésubie, a once-fortified medieval mountain village. Today, we’ll give our feet a break and the day is yours to enjoy, French Alps style. Stroll the village’s meandering lanes, pop into local shops, or linger at an outdoor cafe over a café crème or glass (or two, or three) of local wine.

Get a good night’s rest because the next day, it’s back on the trail. We’ll drive to the end of the Boreon Valley to start our trek through Mercantour National Park, the home of ermine, chamois, ibex, and eagles. Starting from the stone barns at Vacherie du Boreon, we’ll pass through groves of larch trees toward shimmering Trecolpas Lake, then continue to the Pas de Ladres, our pass for today. Our descent will take us to the Madone de Fenestre, a 14th-century high altar made of Lebanese cedar nestled at the end of the valley.

Day 9: 7 miles, 6 hours, 1,596′ gain/loss

This morning, we depart early for Camp d’Argent. As we treck the GR5 trail along the ridge between the Roya and Bavera valleys, we’re greeted by the heady fragrances of the world-famous herbes de Provence—rosemary, sage, oregano, marjoram, and savory—which grow abundantly along our route. Next, we’ll approach the medieval village of Sospel, known for its baroque church, newly renovated town square, and 13th-century toll bridge, one of the last of its kind in the world.

Our final trek begins the following day. Hiking to the Grand Mont, we’ll savor one last panoramic view of the mountains before marching triumphantly down to the Mediterranean village of Castellar, its citrus- and sunshine-colored houses perched on the side of a steep slope overlooking the sea.

A short transfer takes us to our hotel in Menton, a picturesque village on the French Riviera where we’ll mark the end our journey by dipping our toes into the azure waters of the Mediterranean. The perfect spot for us to celebrate the end of our grand traverse.

Day 10: 11.5 miles, 7 hours, 1,590′ gain/loss
Day 11: 7.5 miles, 6.5 hours, 2,428′ gain/loss

After breakfast, we’ll pack up our gear, say farewell to our new Outside community friends, and say au revoir to France knowing we’ve accomplished something truly special.