French Alps: Grand Traverse 2021

Bienvenue à la grande traversée! From Chamonix, at the base of Mont Blanc, we’ll grab our day packs and depart for Megève, where we begin the ascent over the grassy slopes of the Mont de Vores. From the wide-open summit we’ll make a long traverse in the shadow of the aptly named Aiguille Croche, or Eighth Needle, to reach the Col de Véry. Its sweeping views of the entire Mont Blanc range includes the summit of the massif itself—the views are unforgettable.

In the afternoon we hike down to the picturesque mountain town of Hauteluce, with its Baroque chapel and wooden chalets, then transfer to Beaufort—birthplace of the eponymous raw-milk cheese, a delicacy since Roman times—for the night and a well-earned evening feast to celebrate our first day together.

Day 1: 10 miles, 7 hours, 2,977′ gain

Say a hearty bonjour to the cerulean blue waters of Lac de Roselend. Our trailhead this morning overlooks the winding path along the ridge of Le Mont des Acrays toward the base of the ‘Giant’s Tooth’ peak of the Pierra Menta. At the Col du Couvercle, we get panoramic views of the southern edge of the Mont Blanc range and the summits of the Vanoise—another unspeakably stunning view on a trip full of them.

Later we descend into the Tarentaise valley, erstwhile capital of the pre-Roman Centrones tribe, past the rushing the Isère river. We’ll transfer to Landry village to spend the night in comfort.

The next day we enter Vanoise National Park. Be on the lookout for ibexes and marmots wandering among the park’s dramatic jagged peaks. We’ll stop to admire the crimson-veined marble, fossils preserved in limestone, and 1,000-plus different types of flora as we start our ascent to the Col de Plan Sery. Up here, the meadows are carpeted with edelweiss flowers and the feeling is pure Alps majesty. At the foot of the Bellecote summit, we’ll hike down to the valley of Champagny, then transfer to the village of Pralognan for the night.

Day 2: 7.5 miles, 6.5 hours, 2,925′ gain/loss
Day 3: 10.5 miles, 8 hours, 3,850′ gain/loss

After a short transfer to Le Post de la Peche, we start hiking over smooth, rolling hills until we reach the Alpine farming area of Le Ritord. Local artisans here continue to honor centuries-old cheese-making traditions; we’ll stop in for a taste.

Stepping off the main trail, we head to Col d’Aussois, the highest we’ll cross on our entire traverse. The pass is wedged between the ridge of la Pointe de l’Echelle (11,227 ft) and the southern tips of the Domes de la Vanoise and the Dent Parrachée (12,129 ft). After crossing the col, we’ll begin our descent through fields of grazing ibex to the lake of Le Plan d’Amont, its cool turquoise waters teeming with rainbow trout. For the evening we transfer to Aussois, famous for its “land-art trail” of outdoor sculptures by local artists.

Day 4: 10.6 miles, 8.5 hours, 3,933′ gain/loss

Today we start with a transfer to Modane, across the Maurienne Valley. From the small ski resort of Valfréjus, we’ll begin an easy and scenic ascent toward the open col of Vallée Etroite. From our vantage point in this narrow valley at the foot of Mount Thabor, a borderland area that retains a strong Italian flavor, there are glorious views of the summits of the Vanoise region. Our descent takes us along wild streams and through alpine meadows to the huts of the Vallée Etroite. From here we’ll continue over the Col des Thures and down to the luminous Vallée de la Clarée. We spend tonight in Briançon.

The next morning, we transfer to Villard St Pancrace, then hike into Queyras National Park. Famous for its dramatic rock formations and beautiful meadows, we’ll marvel at the towering spires cutting above the trees. Our hike begins in the hamlet of Chalets des Ayes, and continues up a forested stream to a summer farming region just beneath the Col des Ayes. In the afternoon, we make our way up to the exquisite hamlet of Clapeyto and enjoy a breathtaking view of the valley below. We’ll continue down to the village of Brunissard, then transfer to St Véran for the evening.

Day 5: 13.5 miles, 7.5 hours, 3,669′ gain/loss
Day 6: 8 miles, 6.5 hours, 3,336′ gain/loss

Our hike today begins at the Chapelle de Clausis and continues to the hut at La Blanche and a quiet mountain lake. The short climb to Col Blanchet allows us to set foot in Italy—since Roman times, this area has been the conduit for trans-Alpine invasions. It’s back to France via the wide and scenic Col Longet. The descent from here is long and gentle, passing through Alpine meadows and along the Ubaye river valley to Maljesset. We’ll spend tonight in Barcelonnette.

Day 7: 14 miles, 8.5 hours, 2,491′ gain/loss

Enjoy a rest day, French Alps style! We’ll drive to Saint-Martin de Vesubie—crossing the Col de la Bonette, the highest driving pass in Europe. The afternoon is for flaneuring our way around this once-fortified medieval mountain village, sipping a grand crème at an outdoor cafe and hopping over the gargouille (small mountain stream) that runs through the center of town. The nearby wolf education center, devoted to the wolves that returned to the region in the 1990s, is a worthy visit.

We’re back on the trail the next day! We’ll drive to the end of the Boreon Valley to start our trek through Mercantour National Park. Get ready to enter the home of ermine, chamois, ibex, and eagles. Starting from the stone barns at Vacherie du Boreon, we’ll pass through groves of larch trees toward shimmering Trecolpas Lake, then continue to the Pas de Ladres, our pass for today. Our descent will take us to the Madone de Fenestre, a 14th-century high altar made of Lebanese cedar nestled at the end of the valley. Peaceful.

Day 9: 7 miles, 6 hours, 1,596′ gain/loss

We depart early for Camp d’Argent today. As we follow the GR5 trail along the ridge between the Roya and Bavera valleys, we’re be greeted by the heady fragrances of the world-famous herbes de Provence—rosemary, sage, oregano, marjoram, and savory—which grow abundantly along our route. Next, we’ll approach the medieval village of Sospel, famous for its baroque church, newly renovated town square, and 13th-century toll bridge, one of the last of its kind in the world.

Our final trek begins the following day. A hike to the Grand Mont will gave us one last panoramic view of the mountains. Then we’ll march triumphantly down to the Mediterranean village of Castellar, its citrus- and sunshine-colored houses perched on the side of a steep slope overlooking the sea.

A short transfer takes us back to our hotel in Menton, where we’ll mark the end our journey by dipping our toes into the azure waters of the Mediterranean. Only a few miles from the Italian border, Menton is the warmest and most dolce vita of the Côte d’Azur resorts. The perfect spot for us to celebrate the end of our grand traverse.

Day 10: 11.5 miles, 7 hours, 1,590′ gain/loss
Day 11: 7.5 miles, 6.5 hours, 2,428′ gain/loss

It’s time to say goodbye to France (actually, make that au revoir) knowing we’ve accomplished something special—a grand traverse of the French Alps from Mont Blanc all the way to the Cote d’Azur. After a last breakfast, we’ll pack up our gear – say farewell to our new friends – and head for the airport.