Piedmont with Aldo Zaninotto

Welcome to Torino! Today, we begin our exploration of a place where the past lingers on every corner and the present hums with irresistible energy. Together with Aldo, we’ll wind through grand piazzas and narrow stone lanes into the storied soul of the city. A local guide helps us trace the layers of history etched into its architecture, from Roman foundations to Baroque splendor. We’ll visit the regal halls of the Royal Palace, step into the light-filled Church of San Lorenzo, and stand where literary legends once gathered at the Palazzo Carignano.

As twilight warms the skyline and the rhythm of aperitivo begins, we’ll settle into one of Torino’s most beloved restaurants for a meal rooted in the region, accompanied by a glass raised to the journey ahead.

Our first taste of the city this morning is a literal one: a behind-the-scenes food tour of Torino’s fabled coffeehouses. We’ll sample exquisite pastries, snack on seasonal delicacies, and last—but not least—we’ll dive into the beautifully complex world of Italian chocolate and one of the city’s proudest inventions: a steaming Bicerin made of espresso and drinking chocolate.

After lunch on our own, we make our pilgrimage to the countryside where our Piedmont wine education begins. Here, within one of Italy’s most heralded appellations, we’ll sample Aldo’s favorite varietal—the eclectic and volatile Nebbiolo grape, originally planted by the Romans.

After reconciling the subtly of these stunning vintages, we’ll move onto one of the most unique places in all of Piedmont. It’s not a stunning vineyard or ancient amphitheater. It’s Ivrea, a mid-century planned industrial utopia—a shining example of the ideals of the Movimento Comunità that pervaded Piedmont in the 1950s and ’60s. We’ll pass by the headquarters of Olivetti, the makers of coveted typewriters, and marvel at the blueprints of this ambitious social experiment.

Dinner tonight is magical and quintessentially Piedmontese; we’ll indulge in a perfectly wine-paired dinner led by a local sommelier.

Today, we venture to the outskirts and find ourselves learning the art of soft cheese with a master cheesemaker. In the villa of Costigliole d’Asti, we’ll work our ways through mozzarella and burrata, tasting as we go, of course.

Soon we’ll turn to Aldo as brilliant cheese requires brilliant wine. In the rolling hills just down the road, we’ll indulge in an immersive visit to golden vineyards touched by October light, including a flight of rare vintages paired with a meal from a local trattoria. This estate carries over 150 years of winemaking heritage, with a focus on traditional sparkling methods and a reverence for time. Here, we’ll step through grand Art Deco halls, descend into cathedral-like tunnels carved from tufa rock, and taste méthode champenoise sparkling wines that have quietly rested through seasons—each sip echoing the elegance of Piedmont’s past. As we tour the estate, Aldo’s expertise will help tease out the nuances of these particular vintages. As the late light of the afternoon slips into the valley, we’ll make our way to Pollenzo and check into our picturesque hotel.

Get settled. Shut your eyes. Walk the dazzling estate. In the evening, we’ll reconvene for a lively and intimate dinner in the garden at our hotel.

This morning, we’ll step outside our hotel to explore the Roman amphitheaters and temples next door and learn about the rich history of Barolo and how this small, beautiful region became the epicenter of Piedmont’s food and wine culture. We’ll then move on to the University of Pollenzo for a tour of its historic campus before descending into their coveted Wine bank, which features more than 100,000 bottles of Italy’s rarest and most celebrated wines.

We’ll leave the bottles uncorked for now, for the medieval hamlet of Alba awaits us. Alba is the undisputed capital of truffles and hazelnuts—in fact Ferrero has its headquarters in the heart of downtown. Before settling in for lunch, we’ll stroll the pedestrian zone and take in the rich splendor of the architecture, not to mention the thriving art scene.

After a stunning lunch, we find ourselves wandering the rows of a majestic, organic hazelnut grove. Here, we’ll sample all kinds of local favorites, witness their handed-down harvest techniques and learn how to elevate these nuts with just the right type of chocolate. After, the late afternoon is yours to embellish. You can find us at the local trattoria nursing an Aperol spritz and reflecting on the amazing journey so far.

We’ll see you at dinnertime for a meal full of dishes as traditional and refined as Piedmont itself.

The hunt is on for truffles! Led by an expert trifolau, we’ll retreat to the forest with specially trained dogs for a guided experience on locating, identifying, and cooking up these flavorful fungi. Walking the forests of Langhe is pure magic—as we tramp through brushstrokes of fallen leaves, we’ll listen for a few secrets and tricks of this ancient tradition.

Hunting for truffles is hard work, but don’t worry, a sumptuous reward is in store. What’s next? A stroll through the cobbled lanes of Serralunga d’Alba, where medieval towers rise above rows of nebbiolo vines. Lunch is served at a charming village trattoria known for its butter-slicked tajarin and deep cellar. In the afternoon, we visit a family-run winery with a legacy of innovation, where Barolo is crafted with precision and patience. After, we’ll make our way back to the hotel just in time for sunset. The rest of the evening is yours to enjoy.

This morning begins in Bra where we’ll gather ingredients for a cooking class later this evening. It’s is a lively swirl of clinking cheese knives, bright market stalls piled with robiola and toma, and the earthy scent of truffles mingling with the warm aroma of freshly baked focaccia. Once we’ve collected all bounty from the market, we’ll make our way to Barbaresco, where the hills roll in layered folds of vineyard and mist, and the names on the cellar doors carry serious weight. Once there, we stop at a small winery in where we’re welcomed for a tour and intimate tasting—small production, family-run, and fiercely committed to Nebbiolo in its most expressive form.

Lunch is just down the road at a beloved locale. In the afternoon, we’ll practically float back to the hotel. Once arrived, there’s time to pause, pack, or simply sit with the day’s discoveries.

Tonight, we gather for a dinner that speaks to the soul of Piedmont with a farewell cooking class. It’s a meal worthy of reflection—on wines tasted, friendships formed, and the unforgettable rhythm of this region’s kitchens and hills. We’ll sit down together and toast to an incredible week of discovery and exhilaration.

Arrivederci! All beautiful things must end, and so we go our separate ways. After a leisurely breakfast, we’ll transfer to the Torino airport to catch our flights onward and home. Until next time: Ciao!