The Hungry Heart of Hoi An

The Food of Vietnam’s Cultural Capital

Asia-based writer Katie Lockhart calls Hoi An her second home. But there’s much more to this ancient town’s cuisine than phở and bánh mì—although you can’t go wrong with either. Here are six dishes to try in this magical lantern-lit town.

Cao lầu

If Hoi An had a signature dish, this would be it. Steeped in folklore and mysticism, this isn’t your run-of-the-mill noodle dish. Made with water from the Ba Le well in Hoi An’s Old Town, locals say that’s what gives cao lầu noodles their unique chewy texture. Over the centuries, stories of fairies protecting the water and citizens worshiping it have made it a sacred spot in town.

Travelers can eat cao lầu for breakfast, lunch and dinner in Hoi An. A combination of noodles, pork slices, rice noodle croutons, herbs and a few spoonfuls of a five-spice broth, it’s hard to find a bad bowl. While everyone has their favorite, Cao Lầu Liên and Quán Cao Lầu Thanh are beloved.

Mì quảng

A medley of rice noodles, turmeric broth, peanuts and sesame-topped rice crackers, mì quảng is a must-try. Named after its province of origin, Quảng Nam, this noodle dish is as comforting as a Vietnamese grandmother’s hug. As with most noodle soups in Vietnam, it’s served with a side of fresh herbs, chili and fish sauce to add at your discretion.

Throw a stone in Hoi An, and you’ll likely hit an establishment that sells mì quảng. But for locals, Mì Quảng Ông Hai and Mì 92 never fail.

Bánh bao bánh vạc

Known simply as white rose dumplings, this is a favorite for visitors thanks to its delicate flower shape. Rumored to be created in town by a Chinese family more than 100 years ago, ground pork and mushrooms or shrimp are stuffed inside glutinous rice that’s then molded into a loose rose shape. Topped with fried garlic and served with a fish sauce and chili dipping mixture, they’re addictive.

Cao lầu Không Gian Xanh is a fantastic place to try white rose dumplings and cao lầu. These delightful bites can also be found at any tourist-focused restaurant, including Morning Glory and Miss Ly.

Cơm gà

An everyday staple in Hoi An, cơm gà is a comforting chicken and rice dish. A perfect example of Central Vietnam’s flavorsome, salty dishes, it combines shredded chicken, shaved papaya, fresh herbs, lime and a healthy dollop of local chili sauce. The rice is often cooked with chicken broth and turmeric, giving it a yellow color and aromatic flavor. And a bowl of chicken broth is always served on the side.

For a plate of this local specialty, squeeze into the perennially busy Com Linh. Or pull up a plastic stool at street side stalls like Cơm Gà Xí Hội An.

Cà phê cốt dừa

Known throughout Vietnam as coconut coffee, this drink isn’t specific to Hoi An. But spend a few days in Central Vietnam’s humid heat, and you’ll be begging for this refreshing blend. Made with local Arabica coffee, condensed milk, coconut cream and ice, it’s a delightfully sweet caffeine hit.

There are literally hundreds of coffee shops around Hoi An, but not all have mastered a delicious version. Bicycle to Con Cò during the day for local bites and a stellar coconut coffee. Other satisfying options include Cam Coffee n More and Good Eats.

Bánh mì

Anthony Bourdain once ate bánh mì in Hoi An and said it was “a symphony in a sandwich.” Fast, easy, affordable and most importantly, tasty, trying this Vietnamese sandwich is practically obligatory. Made with meat, pâté, pickled cucumbers and carrots, mayo, chili and fresh herbs stuffed inside a crunchy baguette, it’s arguably the most popular dish in the country.

While Bourdain went to Bánh Mì Phượng (where his picture still hangs), many think another seller has dethroned Ms. Phuong. Madam Khanh – The Banh Mi Queen is a less-crowded, better-prepared option, or you can try both and compare. But word to the wise, always order your bánh mì with everything.