Alaska: Glacier Bay & Icy Straits

Welcome to Gustavus! Tucked past hundreds of miles of jagged mountains and icy fjords, Gustavus (pronounced gu-STAY-vus) is about as isolated as you can get in the United States, disconnected from any roads, in or out—there are only 400 intrepid year-round residents, and just one flight a day in or out.

The draw? Gustavus is the remote gateway to Glacier Bay National Park, a stunning 520,000-acre expanse of glaciers, wilderness, wildlife and unstoppable adventure. We’ll arrive throughout the day and get settled in our lodge. Then, we’ll meet up with for a welcome dinner and cheers to our week of adventures together.

We flew into a town with no roads in or out. And yet the adventure really gets in gear today! From Gustavus this morning, we board a catamaran and sail the coastline along a craggy tundra of tidewater glaciers to Glacier Bay National Park. Only two ships are allowed in per day to preserve the park’s natural beauty. We’ll spend most of the day on Glacier Bay, and we’re bound to see eagles soaring, humpback whales breaching and fjords of glacial flow tumbling into the sea.

In the late afternoon, we’ll go ashore and continue on foot to the home of the indigenous Huna Tlingit clan. Their original villages were overrun by glacial advance in the 1700s, but the Tlignit were slowly able to return and re-establish their community. As the first permanent clan house in Glacier Bay in 250 years, the project also provides an opportunity to revitalize Tlingit artistic traditions. We’ll tour the incredible wooden lodge structure adorned with white, black and red tribal artwork, and meet with a clan elder to learn more about the clan’s customs and history, then head back to Gustavus for dinner.

After a hearty country-style breakfast, we board small boats and cross the Icy Strait. It sounds ominous, but don’t worry. This narrow stretch of ocean between Gustavus and Chichagof Island is full of wild wonder, where tall pines line the shores and snow-capped mountains tower behind them. It’s also well-known for its marine life, so we’ll keep our eyes peeled for bald eagles above, and Steller sea lions, porpoises and humpback whales majestically swimming alongside. We land at Point Adolphus on the northern point of Chichagof, and as our guides set up camp, we set off to kayak the coastline, getting even closer views at the amazing wildlife. Dinner tonight is a camp-style treat prepared by our own camp cook.

Back to the ocean! After breakfast and a hot coffee in the brisk morning, we set out again like Shackleton, Cook and Vancouver. Our full day of kayaking takes us deeper into the coastal expanse of islands hemming Tongass National Forest and the Icy Straits. We’ll paddle along Chichagof spotting sea otters, mink, martens and river otters enjoying the day. Shoreline trees bustle with bald eagles and we might even wave at some brown bears at the water’s edge. We stop for lunch on a tranquil beach spot and paddle through the afternoon.

When we return to camp at Point Adolphus this evening, we’ll have another camp meal cooked to perfection.

After a last paddle or just a relaxing cup of coffee in the clear morning, we board the boat back to Gustavus and enjoy lunch outdoors, reflecting on our adventure. Then, we take off in private planes for a quick 30-minute flight to Juneau. We’ll see the mountainous glacial vistas we were just kayaking alongside before landing in Alaska’s capital.

Like Gustavus, there are no roads connecting Juneau to the outside world. Regardless, it’s bigger than Rhode Island and is Alaska’s second most populous city—a testament to the tenacity of its residents. After settling into our hotel we’ll take the Mount Roberts Tramway. As we ride the cable car up and up, the city and coast will shrink beneath us. But the breathtaking views don’t stop here! We’ll continue by foot up Gastineau Peak for incredible sights of the channel. We descend back to town once we’ve soaked it all in, and the night is on our own to explore Juneau’s saloons, restaurants and shops.

From kayaks to boats to planes to trams, we thought we’d done it all—not so fast. This morning we board a helicopter to see what looms above Alaska’s capital city. The enormous icefield bordering us is home to multiple glacial flows. They’re what make Juneau feel so rugged and isolated, like we’re truly in another world. We’ll gear up, crampons and all, and go on a glacier hike, exploring all its features and beauty. After communing with our inner adventurer, we’ll descend back to civilization.

We’ll tour Alaska Brewing Company, just outside downtown Juneau. Through tastings and a well-deserved lunch, we’ll learn about how they’ve showcased award-winning quality beer in the region for the past 30 years—the good beer, food and vibe are infectious. After sampling everything we can, we’ll head back to town for some last-minute touring and shopping before reconvening for dinner. Right on the beach, we’ll feast on a fresh seafood cookout paired with the finest local brews.

Alas, our time in this patch of paradise is over. After breakfast we’ll transfer to Juneau’s airport for flights home, and bid a fond farewell, bonded over Alaska’s great wild. Until next time!