Seville & Granada with Kate Williams

Day 1

Welcome to Seville, the capital of Andalusia! Seville (suh-BEE-ya to locals) has been occupied by the Phoenicians, Greeks, Carthaginians, Romans and Moors; a stroll down its bustling streets is the best kind of history lesson. This morning, we visit the old quarter of Santa Cruz, with its centuries-old gardens and lime-washed houses. We’ll also head to the vast medieval cathedral, La Giralda bell tower and the mighty Alcazar, the city’s magnificent royal palace. 

Then we make like the sevillanos do, embarking on our own tapeo, or tapas crawl. With Kate and our local guide, we’ll wander maze-like alleys to buzzing tapas bars, from traditional to contemporary. Along the way, we may sample anything from sizzling shrimp and toast topped with quail’s eggs to spinach-and-chickpea stew. We’ll learn how to pair our tapas with local wines, elegant sherries and crisp Spanish beers. In the afternoon, we’ll have time to wander on our own before reconvening for a truly special welcome dinner. 

Day 2

Today we’ll venture north into the Sierra de Huelva, homeland of the world-renowned Iberian pig. We’ll wend our way through hilltop towns near the Portuguese border, where jamón ibérico de bellota—the finest ham in the world—are cured in the fresh mountain air for up to three years, producing its signature silkiness and succulent flavor. 

Our host today is Armando, who will offer us a personal tour of his family pig farm in the foothills of the Sierra de Aracena mountains. We’ll visit the acorn-strewn grounds where the pigs graze, the salting area, and the bodegas where the vast hocks are hung to cure. We’ll taste some freshly cut jamón, then head to a nearby village to visit one of the area’s legendary shops for more degustación. Our rustic lunch at a nearby restaurant will be devoted to the region’s bounty—young cheeses, mushrooms, wild asparagus and artichokes, and more jamón ibérico, of course—all accompanied by spectacular local wines.

Day 3

We’re off late this morning to Seville’s central market, whose wrought-iron gates and stained-glass facade overlook 115 stalls of local purveyors selling garden-fresh produce, freshly caught seafood, straight-from-the-oven bread, olives and Andalusian spices. We’ll pick out our favorite items, then head to a nearby restaurant for a master class on cooking with sherry, courtesy of Kate and a local chef. Sherry has been beloved by Spaniards and foreigners alike for centuries—even Shakespeare sang its praises. The strong sun here gives its grapes a high sugar content, resulting in a distinctively sweet, refined wine. We’ll be tasting different varieties as we go, using them in our delicious creations. Kate, a major sherry enthusiast, will tell us all about her favorite styles, as well as how she incorporates the wine into her cooking. Full of wine and flavor, the rest of the afternoon in Seville is ours to enjoy.

Day 4

The area just outside Seville produces much of Spain’s olive oil, and we’ll start our day with private tour of a local almazara, or olive mill. The Romans referred to this stuff as liquid gold, and rightly so. After a rustic Spanish breakfast of fresh bread and tomatoes drizzled with oil and salt, we’ll learn about the entire production cycle. From growing and picking to pressing and bottling, and we’ll taste as we go. Kate will share how she uses olive oil in her cuisine, discussing the nuances of flavor, and how she incorporates it into a dish’s different stages.

Appetites well-oiled, we stop in town for a delicious, authentic lunch. It’ll give us an opportunity to sample Spain’s other favorite food: cheese. We’ll eat our courses paired with a variety of cheeses and learn about the region’s favorites. After lunch, we’ll head back to Seville for an evening to explore the city’s restaurants and tapas bars on our own.

Day 5

This morning we’re off to Granada, through the lovely Andalusian countryside to the foothills of the Sierra Nevada mountain range. In Spanish, they say that quien no ha visto Granada, no ha visto nada—the person who hasn’t seen Granada hasn’t seen anything—and for good reason. Its exquisite beauty is a direct product of centuries of Arab influence, a fairytale-like place of minarets, flowing fountains and cármenes (garden-shrouded villas). In this “city of a thousand castles,” every corner hides a surprise, whether it’s an unexpected vista spied through a stone window, or a sunset turning stone ramparts of the old town a gentle rose-gold. 

After settling into our hotel in the heart of the old town, we’ll have time to wander on our own before reconvening for dinner and a traditional performance of flamenco. This typically Andalusian spectacle of color, music and dance strikes such an emotional chord with its audience that there’s even a special word for it: duende. 

Day 6

They say that a visit to the Alhambra “breaks all the senses.” We’ll spend the morning exploring this sprawling, hilltop fortress complex, with its stunning array of royal palaces, serene patios and reflecting pools from the Nasrid dynasty. A World Heritage site since 1984, it has been a tourist attraction for centuries, luring weary travelers from all over the world to its halls and gardens to experience its dreamy geometric precision and riotous color. We’ll stroll in the orange-blossom air, the sound of birdsongs and soothing splashing of fountains—just like Moorish kings of yesteryear. We’ll have the afternoon to ourselves, to keep the spell unbroken.

Day 7

This morning we’re off to the picture-perfect Lecrín Valley, where whitewashed villages and lemon and orange groves tumble down the hillsides toward the shimmering aqua river below. Our hosts today are Scarlett and Chris, who invite us to join them at their farmhouse, with its sweeping views of the valley below. After being treated to a strong café con leche on the sunny terrace, we’ll turn to the task at hand: immersing ourselves in the timeless rhythms of the Spanish countryside. We draw upon everything we’ve learned, tasted and experienced during the past week with another unforgettable cooking experience. Whatever dishes we end up making, this will be a feast to remember, a time to come together and celebrate everything we’ve learned, seen and done over a leisurely, wine-filled Andalusian feast.

This is our last night together. To celebrate our time together, we’ll reconvene tonight for a farewell dinner to remember back in Granada.

Day 8

After a farewell breakfast, we’ll transfer to the airport for flights home. Our time together has come to an end, but Andalusia will remain in our hearts.