Patagonia with Ray Garcia

Day 1

Bienvenidos a Argentina! Our Patagonia adventure begins in El Calafate, a small gateway town on the southern shore of Lago Argentino. It’s our starting point for a cruise north through the southern Patagonian Desert on Argentina’s legendary Ruta 40. As we soak in views of snow-capped peaks and soaring condors, we’ll snack on golden-brown empanadas before stopping to enjoy a coffee and slice of tarta de limon at the historic overlook, La Leona.  

From there, it’s a short two hours until we arrive at our hotel, a sprawling estate set against the backdrop of the Valle del Río de las Vueltas. Over cold beers and a bountiful picada, we’ll gather for introductions and a quick trip briefing, then settle into our rooms for a rejuvenating afternoon siesta. Ray’s treating us to dinner tonight, whipping up an authentic Patagonian welcome feast with the help of a local chef. Against unmatched views of the Chalten Valley, we’ll lift our glasses in toast to the week’s adventures to come. 

Day 2

Today’s trail leads to Laguna Capri, a picturesque lake with sweeping views of glaciers and the massif of Cerro Fitz Roy. Our loop will take us above the De las Vueltas river valley as we hike through the heart of the Del Salto stream bed. After a moderate hour or two, we’ll encounter the fork to Laguna Capri, ambling down a trail with superb, panoramic lakeside views. Once we’ve taken in the stunning beauty of the scene, we’ll descend for lunch (and beers!) at a local brewery. The afternoon is ours to explore Los Cerros and its famed chocolaterias before we reconvene for dinner tonight at a remote refugio. Immersed in forest and surrounded by beautiful views of Cerro Fitz Roy, we’ll recount the day’s adventures while Ray prepares his famous provoletas, a decadent appetizer to our dinner of local meats grilled over a dancing fire.

Returning back to Earth, we’ll have a locally sourced dinner at Refugio El Condor, and don’t be surprised if Ray whips up a few scratch cocktails to celebrate.

Day 2 Hiking
4-5 hours, 5 miles, 1300′ elevation gain/loss

Day 3

This morning we’re ascending the Cerro Torre trailhead, a scenic route that spills out onto spectacular views of Cerro Fitz Roy (11,171′). Possibly the most photogenic (and famous) of Patagonia’s trademark mountainscapes, its towering granite peaks rise in jagged majesty high above a glacial lake. As we hike, we’ll be on the lookout for Magellan woodpeckers and soaring condors overhead. We’ll pause at the viewpoint to (literally) drink it all as Ray prepares a toast of calafate, a fruit liqueur crafted by local producers. 

After a picnic lunch of hyperlocal ingredients, we’ll load up and head out on Ruta 40, passing again through the southern Patagonian Desert as we make our way back to El Calafate. There, we’re visiting Chacra Las Moras, an organic farm and our idyllic backdrop to a hands-on lesson in Patagonian fruit cultivation. During our tour of the grounds, we’ll help Ray forage for the native red berries that grow wild on the land, then gather for an informal cooking lesson as he prepares them into an eye-catching snack. It’s the perfect appetizer for dinner tonight at La Zaina, where we’ll sample local wines alongside seasonal Argentinian specialties.  

Day 3 Hiking
4-5 hours, 4.3 miles, 650′ elevation gain/loss

Day 4

This morning we’re off to explore Nibepo Aike, a working estancia tucked within the quiet majesty of Los Glaciares National Park. There, we’ll explore the timeless traditions of gaucho culture, joining in on the daily rituals of one of Patagonia’s oldest ranches. After a lively lesson in sheep shearing and cattle wrangling, we’ll return to the hotel to tuck into a hearty Argentine spread for lunch. 

Buoyed by our feast of lamb and dulce de leche, we’re setting sail to explore the rugged landscapes of Los Glaciares National Park. Our private boat will drop us first at Playa de las Monedas, where we’ll walk through centuries-old lenga forests that give way to unrivaled panoramas of the Perito Moreno Glacier. From there, we’ll head back to the boat for an even closer glimpse of the 18,000-year-old UNESCO World Heritage Site. Before disembarking to walk alongside the Glacier’s ice walls, however, we’ll toast to the unparalleled splendor of the Park with a cocktail concocted by Ray and chilled by glacial ice. 

Back in El Calafate, we’ll reminisce on the day’s unforgettable adventures over dinner at Mako, a neighborhood staple known for its just-picked ingredients and elegant regional wines. 

Day 5

After a hearty breakfast, it’s time to say farewell to Argentina. Today we’re headed across the Chilean border to Torres Del Paine for the next chapter of our Patagonian adventure. Of course, no MOAD road trip is complete without a snack: on today’s ride, Ray’s serving up flaky croissants, fresh from the ovens of a local Calafate bakery. It’s the buttery prelude we needed for our lunch at El Ovejero, our halfway stop before we continue through the high-mountain desert, vying all the while for glimpses of local guanacos and rheas.

We’ll settle in at our 100-year-old estancia, perched on the edge of Torres del Paine National Park, and enjoy a private tour of the grounds before feasting on a dinner inspired by traditional pioneer recipes and featuring ingredients from the estancia’s own greenhouse and orchards.

Day 6

Today, we hike again. However, in lieu of a burly summit hike, we’ll opt for a series of breathtaking jaunts all over Torres del Paine National Park. We’ll tackle various trailheads and be treated with scintillating views of iconic peaks and alpine waterways too. As a kind of savory motivation, we’ll tuck into an elaborate picnic prepared by Ray and our local guide, topped off by an authentic mate masterclass and tasting. We’ll sample the traditional beverage on its own, then learn from Ray how to offset the bitter punch of the yerba mate with the careful addition of local honey.

In the evening, after returning to our estancia, Ray will take us on his own private tour of the estancia’s gardens and orchards, sharing the finer points of foraging before dinner.

Day 6 Hiking
6-7 hours, 10.8 miles, 2900′ elevation gain/loss

Day 7

Our morning is devoted to the elusive puma, the largest cat in Patagonia. We’ll meet with professionals who study pumas through the Estancia Cerro Guido Conservation Project, whose mission is to bring traditional cattle-raising methods in line with conservation efforts. Pumas are largely solitary, nocturnal creatures, so spotting them is neither guaranteed nor easy.  That’s why we’ll team up with  professionals who will share their wisdom, insights, and the tricks of the trade. 

Our dinner hour tonight starts off with a crucial rite of passage for any visitor to Chile: a hands-on lesson in how to make the perfect pisco sour. Alongside the inhouse bartender, Ray will guide us through the art of preparing this beloved national cocktail, made from grape brandy and foamy egg whites and served generously by the pitcher. And then it’s onto the main event—a traditional asado dinner like the locals have been eating for centuries. ¡Salud!

Day 8

This morning we bid a fond farewell to Torres del Paine, and head to the frontier town of Puerto Natales for an afternoon and evening to relax in the sophisticated luxury of our accommodations at The Singular—and maybe take in a spa treatment or massage before reconvening for a private wine tasting.

Feeling revived and refreshed, we’ll sit together one final time. For our farewell dinner, Ray has curated an impeccable selection of exquisite local ingredients, from Magellanic lamb rump to fresh sweet corn and vibrant green chilis. In true asador style, this epic feast will be cooked over open flames in a space that features breathtaking views of the Señoret channel. Our time in Patagonia has been an unforgettable journey, and this celebration is well and truly earned.

Day 9

It’s time to say adios to Patagonia, to Ray, and to our fellow travelers. After breakfast, we’ll head to Punta Arenas for our connecting flights, our minds and hearts full of glaciers, pumas, gauchos, and the very special fairytale magic of this place.