Southeast Alaska: Kayak & Camp

Welcome to Alaska! Yes, we’re still in America, but it feels a world away. Tucked past hundreds of miles of jagged mountains and icy fjords, we find ourselves in the small town of Gustavus. It’s about as isolated as you can get in the States, disconnected from any roads, in or out—there are only 400 intrepid year-round residents. Gustavus is also the gateway to Glacier Bay National Park, a 520,000-acre expanse of glaciers, wilderness, wildlife and unstoppable adventure. We’ll arrive throughout the day and get settled in our enclave of the outdoors. Then, we meet up with the group and Scott to share a welcome dinner—don’t worry, we’ve already got beers on ice—and cheers to our week ahead.

We flew into a town with no roads in or out. And yet the adventure really gets in gear today! From Gustavus this morning, we board a ship and travel the coastline along a craggy tundra of tidewater glaciers to Glacier Bay National Park. Only two ships are allowed in per day to preserve the park’s natural beauty. We’re bound to see eagles soaring, humpback whales breaching and fjords of glacial flow tumbling into the sea.

Stepping off the ship, we continue on foot to the home of the indigenous Huna Tlingit clan. Their original villages here were overrun by glacial advance in the 1700s, but the Tlignit were slowly able to return and re-establish their community. The newly built Huna Tribal House memorializes the clan houses that once lined the shores of the land. As the first permanent clan house in the Bay in 250 years, the project also provides an opportunity to revitalize Tlingit artistic traditions—the raven and eagle totem poles outside the house were just completed within the year. We’ll tour the incredible wooden lodge structure adorned with white, black and red tribal artwork, and meet with a clan elder to learn more about the clan’s customs and history. With new knowledge and context of the region, we head back to Gustavus to prep for our journey ahead!

Alaska just keeps on giving. After a hearty country-style breakfast, we board small boats and cross the Icy Strait. It sounds ominous, but don’t worry. This narrow stretch of ocean between Gustavus and Chichagof Island is full of wild wonder, where tall pines line the shores and snow-capped mountains tower behind them. It’s also well-known for its marine life, so we’ll keep our eyes peeled for bald eagles above and Steller sea lions, porpoises and humpback whales majestically swimming alongside. We land at Point Adolphus on the northern point of Chichagof, and as our guides set up camp, we set off to kayak the coastline, taking in the sights and getting even closer views at the amazing wildlife right at our fingertips.

Dinner tonight is a camp-style treat with freshly grilled halibut tacos and a time to celebrate our adventures with a cold Breakside brew. But not just anyone—we’ll be tasting an exclusive beer made just for us to celebrate a decade of good times rolling. Scott will regale us with the tale of how it all started right here in Alaska as we dine fireside. If we’re being honest, it’s more about how he had one too many beers and decided to quit his job and start a brewery. But we’ll drink to that any day!

Back to the ocean! After breakfast and a hot coffee in the brisk morning, we set out again like Shackleton, Cook and Vancouver. Our full day of kayaking exploration will take us deeper into the coastal expanse of islands hemming Southeast Alaska. We’ll paddle along Chichagof spotting sea otters, mink, martens and river otters enjoying the day. Shoreline trees bustle with bald eagles and we might even wave at some brown bears at the water’s edge. We stop for lunch on a tranquil beach spot and paddle through the afternoon. When we return to camp at Point Adolphus this evening, we’ll have another camp meal cooked to perfection and see if we can find any leftover beer—we think there’s a good chance.

After a last paddle or just a relaxing cup of coffee in the clear morning, we board the boat back to Gustavus and enjoy lunch outdoors, reflecting on our adventure. Here, we take off in private planes for a quick 30-minute flight to Juneau. We’ll see the mountainous glacial vistas we were just kayaking alongside before landing in Alaska’s capital. Like Gustavus, there are no roads connecting it to the outside world. Regardless, it’s bigger than Rhode Island and is Alaska’s second most populous city—a testament to the tenacity of its residents. After settling into our hotel we’ll take the Mount Roberts Tramway. As we ride the cable car up and up, the city and coast will shrink beneath us. But the breathtaking views don’t stop here! We’ll continue by foot up Gastineau Peak for incredible sights of the channel. We descend back to town once we’ve soaked it all in, and the night is on our own to explore Juneau’s saloons, restaurants and shops.

From kayaks to boats to planes to trams, we thought we’d done it all—not so fast. This morning we board a helicopter to see what looms above Alaska’s capital city. The enormous icefield bordering us is home to multiple glacial flows. They’re what make Juneau feel so rugged and isolated, like we’re truly in another world. We’ll gear up, crampons and all, and go on a glacier hike, exploring all its features and beauty. After communing with our inner adventurer, we’ll descend back to civilization.

We’ll tour Alaska Brewing Company, just outside downtown Juneau. Through tastings and a well-deserved lunch, we’ll learn about how they’ve showcased award-winning quality beer in the region for the past 30 years. This also happens to be the exact place that motivated Scott to start Breakside in Portland—the good beer, food and vibe is infectious. After sampling everything we can, we’ll head back to town for some last-minute touring and shopping before reconvening for dinner. Right on the beach, we’ll feast on a fresh seafood cookout paired with the finest local brews.

After breakfast, we’ll transfer to the airport for flights home. It might be too early for a farewell beer, but no one’s stopping you. We bid the group and Scott farewell as we depart the northern frontier.